TR2/3/3A Varying clutch engagement

[Turbozinke]

I recently purchased a 1959 TR3A. It was restore by the previous owner very nicely. It runs, drives, and stops, but I am having difficulty with the clutch. When I let the clutch pedal out it engages at a different position each time. If I pump it up it engages (disengages) when I first push the pedal, meaning the beginning of the stroke. But if I don't pump it the first part of the stroke is very light and the action is at the end of the stroke.

I have plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Does this mean I have air in the line? Or something else? This if my first post. Thank you.

 

[CJD]

Your description is most common for a failing master cylinder piston seal. Before changing the master cylinder, though, you should try bleeding the slave cylinder and checking the adjustment on the clutch arm. While working on the adjustment, make sure the return spring is still installed between the clutch arm and the bellhousing. Once all that is checked, if it still behaves differently at every pedal push, then it's time for a new or rebuilt master cylinder.

PS...if the adjustment is WAY out of whack, that is an indication of a broken fork pin in the clutch shaft. This is very common and requires pulling the tranny to repair, although you can run it broken for a long time.

 

[Popeye]

Welcome!!

 

[mctriumph]

Love the Signal red!!
I am suspicious that a defective master cylinder was used in the restore. There are a large # of
brand new masters that have been produced with a tiny spring washer left out of the valve .
WTF would you compromise safety in this age of lawsuits? The symptom is, it is almost
impossible to get it to bleed correctly. Then mysteriously acting like they were not bleed at all.
Roadster factory sells a kit the does include this spring washer and its an easy fix. I no longer
install a "new" master on a tr3 with out kitting it/ checking for problems.
A sad state of affairs .
Mad dog

 

[sp53]

New stuff would help or like said, it is difficult to be sure without knowing the car and what components the car has with the clutch system. The clutch system has evolved over the years also and incorrect parts inter change. Can you take a couple of pictures of the slave cylinder and maybe one of the master. A 1959 tr3 should have a 1 inch slave cylinder. People will put a 7/8 slave cylinder which makes for more effort to push down the clutch, but the clutch works fine.

Sounds like something has weak pressure probably the master and when you pump up the hydraulics, the system works better and this moves the point of engagement. There should be a return spring on the slave cylinder to help stop the building up of pressure and keep the pedal relatively in the same spot. My car works fine (please gods do make my car fail, humility is important in the LBC world) and if I pump up the pedal the pedal stiffness and engagement will move some.

yes the shaft pin in the bellhousing could be broke also which is a bummer

If you get a new return spring, get it from TRF because they sell both type springs one for the early cars and one for the latter cars. Your car is a latter

At the end of the day, the car is going to work like a 1959 English hydraulic linkage clutch and not like an old Ford or Chev clutch that you can bang second and bark them. The clutch will be spongeyer

Steve

 

[Joel Lester]

Congrats on the new car! Fantastic!
First thing I'd do is rebuild the clutch master cylinder. It's just a few bucks and easy to do.
Might want to ask the previous owner (if you still have contact info) to see if he/she used silicone fluid vs DOT 3. You don't want to mix them... and if it is indeed DOT 3 then be super care about getting any of that on your paint.
Cheer!
Joel

 

[RJS]

I had this problem. For me at least, it turned out to be worn clevis pin/hardware connecting the clutch master to the pedal. Renewed everything and clutch engagement consist/ normal.

Not saying this is your issue but cheap, easy to check and renew.

Bob