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TR2/3/3A Clutch Slave Cylinder location when TR3 has a TR6 Gearbox?

RonC

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Are you in the process of doing the swap of a TR6 J type overdrive gearbox into a TR3? I am sorting out the rear mount and now looking into the difference in length of the sleeve on the input shaft cover This is associated with depth of spring clutch and diaphragm clutch. I was hoping to discuss with another TR3 owner that has gone through the swap.
Ron
 

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karls59tr

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I'd like to advise you but it was over 20 years ago that I installed the TR6 gearbox so I don't remember which sleve I used? I will be removing the gearbox to install a new clutch but will not be doing that until Spring as i don't have a warm place to work on the car. Hopefully someone else on the forum can advise you. Do you know about fabricating two guide bolts to assist in installing the gearbox?
 

CJD

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The longer snout is for the TR3 finger clutch, and the shorter is for the later TR4+ diaphragm clutch.

Mount the slave cylinder to the same side of the case that it came off. It depends on the slave set-up you will be using, not the transmission type.
 

RonC

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Yes I will use some guide bolts and I understand there is a counter clockwise rotation first to get clutch lever past floor pan. Right now it's getting the clutch and mount sorted out.

I'm considering a custom plate picking up factory mounts on frame, running down small exposed edge on frame beside rolled floor pan then sitting on top of front of cruciform box. Design needs to be contoured to allow speedo cable to curl under, horizontal tail end of solenoid to have clearance and place for exhaust bracket to attach since I'm using frame hole for speedo. Also, can I slip in place or need it in pieces that can be assembled under transmission and still be a strong support. I have looked at the Buckeye site showing a simple mount of 3 pieces.

Further mount design concerns is anti vibration method that meets size and height restrictions.
 
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karls59tr

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Thanks poolboy that's the pic I was looking for. Are you certain that's a TR6 box.... I thought the flange was bigger on the TR6 unless the flange is only wider near the top? Is that a stock clutch slave "rod"?
 

Graham H

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Here is my setup, with the three clutch you must have free-play so the throw out bearing has no contact with the clutch fingers when you are driving. The six has a different setup and I am not sure how it works but as you can see it doesn't have a return spring on the clutch leaver.

Graham
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karls59tr

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Here is my setup, with the three clutch you must have free-play so the throw out bearing has no contact with the clutch fingers when you are driving. The six has a different setup and I am not sure how it works but as you can see it doesn't have a return spring on the clutch leaver.

GrahamView attachment 73976
Graham It looks to me like the anchor plate that holds the return spring has been extended slightly?Did you modify it? I think Randall mentioned this once in a postt hat it needs to be done. Your pic must be the "TR3 clutch cylinder' setup for a TR6 box in a 3 whereas Poolboy and Hamish appear to be using the "TR6 clutch cylinder" setup. I have been using the setup that you show in your picture for years but did not extend or slightly alter that anchor pin. I sometimes became aware of a kind of dragging noise from the clutch area (when I could hear it above the exhaust noise). I believe now from what you have said that the throw out bearing was contacting the clutch fingers when driving! After many years the clutch in my 3 is finally staring to fail. I'm going to replace the clutch in the Spring when the weather is better. I'm going to go with the setup that you use. Once the box is out I'm probably going to see wear at the throw out bearing and clutch fingers. Wonder if the actual clutch disc will have extensive wear??? Thanks for everyone's input (y)
 

Graham H

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That spring anchor plate is the one that was on the car when I got it and no I did not modify it and it works fine.

Graham
 
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