Bloody heck....

[F1LOCO]

So nice morning to take the TR4 out, but she was being difficult. For some reason under load (2800+ RPM) and hard acceleration, she starts to putter and cough. I used to have a turbo and when the wires or coil went bad, this was the case, but this isn't a turbo. Suggestions? Where do I start w/o buying a Petronix kit, coil, plugs and wires? Or do I? I know my old '48 Willys Jeep used to give me crap all the time, but then I put the Petronix in and eventually a new fuel pump and that solved the problem.

 

[NutmegCT]

My first thought: failing coil and/or plug wires.

You don't need to have a turbo to suffer ignition problems.

Does your TR4 have standard distributor? or a Pertronix?

Tom

 

[Andrew Mace]

Also, SU or Stromberg carburetors?

 

[Billm]

When was the last time that you changed the condenser in your distributor?
BillM

 

[F1LOCO]

My first thought: failing coil and/or plug wires.

You don't need to have a turbo to suffer ignition problems.

Does your TR4 have standard distributor? or a Pertronix?

Tom

Standard distributor. Was debating about converting to the Petronix. Would the vaccuum be affected, though, by the switch? Also noticed the choke is way too sensitive. If I pull it more than a tap out, the engine races like crazy. Could this be a source as well? Tips on setting correct choke length?

 

[F1LOCO]

When was the last time that you changed the condenser in your distributor?
BillM

Never...just got it, but allegedly it was all done w/in the last year...

 

[F1LOCO]

Also, SU or Stromberg carburetors?

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Have you checked the oil level in the dashpots?

Marv

 

[Billm]

I would look into changing the cap,rotor,points and condenser. Don't use the regular suppliers for these since there are lots of problems reported lately with their components. Advanced Distributors has the only known good supply for these parts right now.
https://www.advanceddistributors.com/

No financial interest here, just a happy customer
BillM

 

[F1LOCO]

Ok, got home at lunch and played a bit with her. I think the issue was the PO adjusted the choke too high. In fact with it depressed inside, the adjustment screws still touched the cams. I backed them back out and set them at full choke it was an decent RPM, and then readjusted the idle screws on the carbs as it was puttering around 500-700rpms and idling rough up to 800-900 when it leveled out a bit. Will take her for a spin back to the office after lunch and hope for the best...stay tuned...otherwise, back to tracing the ignition source...

BTW, I did peak in the distributor and everything did actually look new, including the condensor and points.

Thanks again...

 

[F1LOCO]

Well that was an easy fix. Purred like a kitten all the way to the office.

Temperature - is it normal in 86F ambient temp to run 80-85C? Assuming my gauge is correct. Of course my AMP has a habit of launching and sticking to the + side on acceleration...

 

[DanB]

That engine bay looks really nice!

Always remember to start with the easy stuff first, like you did looking at the choke. Checking for loose wires, cleaning and resetting the points, those types of things. Another thing that can cause weirdness is a loose ground, or poor ground connection.

Dan B
S. Charleston, WV

 

[tdskip]

That engine bay looks really nice!

Always remember to start with the easy stuff first, like you did looking at the choke. Checking for loose wires, cleaning and resetting the points, those types of things. Another thing that can cause weirdness is a loose ground, or poor ground connection.

Dan B
S. Charleston, WV

+1.

BTW - Nice car, and welcome to the forum!

 

[6TTR3A]

<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="color: #003300">As for the amp gauge sticking....I'm guessing you're running an alternator...No harm as long as tapping on the gauge "un-sticks" it...A permanent fix requires tearing the gauge completely apart....Not worth it....An easier prevention is to shunt the gauge....See illustration....That's a TR3 gauge but you get the idea...That will prevent the needle from jumping all the way to 30+

</span></span>

 

[F1LOCO]

Thanks. It's not an alternator, though. Positive ground and a dynamo....

Will the shunt work with the dynamo? Yes, a simple tap on the glass and it bounces back down.

 

[TR3driver]

Yes, the shunt will work with a dynamo, it doesn't care. But the point of the shunt is to change the ammeter calibration (to work with a higher output alternator).

IMO if the ammeter is hitting +30 hard enough to stick with a stock generator, then you have some other problem in the charging circuit like maybe the voltage regulator contacts are sticking, or there is an intermittent short in the wires to the generator. Either way, putting out that much current even momentarily will eventually damage the generator. I suggest finding and fixing the problem, rather than trying to hide it with a shunt.

 

[F1LOCO]

Sigh...was hoping it was just a "Lucas" glitch...end of story.

Guess I'll start at the dynamo and work my way back looking for frayed or fried wires...

Any other suggestions? Thanks.