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So nice morning to take the TR4 out, but she was being difficult. For some reason under load (2800+ RPM) and hard acceleration, she starts to putter and cough. I used to have a turbo and when the wires or coil went bad, this was the case, but this isn't a turbo. Suggestions? Where do I start w/o buying a Petronix kit, coil, plugs and wires? Or do I? I know my old '48 Willys Jeep used to give me crap all the time, but then I put the Petronix in and eventually a new fuel pump and that solved the problem.
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Bloody heck....
- Thread starter F1LOCO
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Also, SU or Stromberg carburetors?
NutmegCT said:
Standard distributor. Was debating about converting to the Petronix. Would the vaccuum be affected, though, by the switch? Also noticed the choke is way too sensitive. If I pull it more than a tap out, the engine races like crazy. Could this be a source as well? Tips on setting correct choke length?
Marvin Gruber
Yoda
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Have you checked the oil level in the dashpots?
Marv
Marv
I would look into changing the cap,rotor,points and condenser. Don't use the regular suppliers for these since there are lots of problems reported lately with their components. Advanced Distributors has the only known good supply for these parts right now.
https://www.advanceddistributors.com/
No financial interest here, just a happy customer
BillM
https://www.advanceddistributors.com/
No financial interest here, just a happy customer
BillM
Ok, got home at lunch and played a bit with her. I think the issue was the PO adjusted the choke too high. In fact with it depressed inside, the adjustment screws still touched the cams. I backed them back out and set them at full choke it was an decent RPM, and then readjusted the idle screws on the carbs as it was puttering around 500-700rpms and idling rough up to 800-900 when it leveled out a bit. Will take her for a spin back to the office after lunch and hope for the best...stay tuned...otherwise, back to tracing the ignition source...
BTW, I did peak in the distributor and everything did actually look new, including the condensor and points.
Thanks again...
BTW, I did peak in the distributor and everything did actually look new, including the condensor and points.
Thanks again...
That engine bay looks really nice!
Always remember to start with the easy stuff first, like you did looking at the choke. Checking for loose wires, cleaning and resetting the points, those types of things. Another thing that can cause weirdness is a loose ground, or poor ground connection.
Dan B
S. Charleston, WV
Always remember to start with the easy stuff first, like you did looking at the choke. Checking for loose wires, cleaning and resetting the points, those types of things. Another thing that can cause weirdness is a loose ground, or poor ground connection.
Dan B
S. Charleston, WV
6TTR3A
Jedi Warrior
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<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="color: #003300">As for the amp gauge sticking....I'm guessing you're running an alternator...No harm as long as tapping on the gauge "un-sticks" it...A permanent fix requires tearing the gauge completely apart....Not worth it....An easier prevention is to shunt the gauge....See illustration....That's a TR3 gauge but you get the idea...That will prevent the needle from jumping all the way to 30+
</span></span>
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Yes, the shunt will work with a dynamo, it doesn't care. But the point of the shunt is to change the ammeter calibration (to work with a higher output alternator).
IMO if the ammeter is hitting +30 hard enough to stick with a stock generator, then you have some other problem in the charging circuit like maybe the voltage regulator contacts are sticking, or there is an intermittent short in the wires to the generator. Either way, putting out that much current even momentarily will eventually damage the generator. I suggest finding and fixing the problem, rather than trying to hide it with a shunt.
IMO if the ammeter is hitting +30 hard enough to stick with a stock generator, then you have some other problem in the charging circuit like maybe the voltage regulator contacts are sticking, or there is an intermittent short in the wires to the generator. Either way, putting out that much current even momentarily will eventually damage the generator. I suggest finding and fixing the problem, rather than trying to hide it with a shunt.