TR2/3/3A Clutch options

GROUP:

I need some feedback.

1959 TR3A TS43919L - Survivor with 56K original miles

CLUTCH

I've disassembled & inspected the 3 main clutch components

1. DISC

2. THROW-OUT BEARING

3. PRESSURE PLATE

They all appear to be OK.

Of course, the DISC shows the wear of 56K miles but I already bought a new TRF DISC.

Here's my options as I see them:

1. Install just the new DISC.

2. Buy & install a new THROW-OUT BEARING & the new DISC.

3. Buy & install a new THROW-OUT BEARING, PRESSURE PLATE & the new DISC

My current inclination is option #2 above.

I'd appreciate any feedback & the logic behind it.


Thanks,

mgf

Most I think will suggest option 3. Personally, I have always inspected all the components and reused the ones that are in good condition (option 1). The only time I've regretted that is once when I accidentally picked up the wrong TOB to install. (Later found the "known good" one still laying on the bench.) My reasoning is not so much to save money (these days, although there was a time when a new PP was a major expenditure for me ), but because new components are so often defective these days. The stock TR3 clutch seems to last pretty much forever, in part because it is so big and behind a relatively small motor (the TR6 clutch is actually smaller in diameter). Better to use a "known good" component than some off-shore clone.

Lay the TOB on the floor, stand on it, and do a pirouette. The bearing should be silky smooth. The least bit of roughness or resistance to rotation is cause to replace it.

(Having first formed a mental picture of Randall pirouetting on a TOB)...

I agree though I seem to usually replace the disc when the opportunity arises. That is probably why I have never had to pull the gearbox to replace a clutch (but have pulled them for other reasons).

If you can find a local clutch rebuilder for your pressure plate, I would have that done. Randall is right about the risk of new parts. Otherwise, I'm down for optiopn 2.
Bob

Agree with option 3, and would purchase the components from a reputable and dedicated component supplier and not a retailer to ensure quality.
If it were my car, I would also remove the flywheel, have it resurfaced, lightened and balanced.

Just my $.02-worth, but I've found for myself that although "New" a very seductive word, in recent times it has frequently become synonymous with "garbage":

About 20 years ago, I replaced a clutch and original-type throwout bearing that had been on my TR3A for 2 or 3 decades (and many miles) with a shiny-new one from one of the big-3 suppliers. The new bearing was well greased and gently installed, but failed after only a few thousand miles.

I removed the shiny-new throwout bearing and re-installed the old one that had been enthusiastically pounded off with a large hammer (thinking I would never need it). I re-greased the old bearing prior to installation. 20 years and many miles later that 30 or 40 year-old original bearing is working smoothly and silently - just as it was meant to do. My car is far from a trailer queen, having somewhere north of 300K miles on it.

Caution is recommended when replacing functional original parts with new ones, even from a reputable supplier - remember that suppliers only sell what is available to them in the marketplace, and that the shiny-new parts may actually be made of compressed yak dung.

Unless your pressure plate has completely collapsed (rare for the TR2-TR3 clutch), the Triumph factory service manual has a section on how to adjust the fingers, which can be done at home. The one time I used the factory adjustment procedure it worked very well, and hasn't required further adjustment in 16 years. Worth checking into, unless the face of your pressure plate has been overheated, warped, and/or cracked.

For a clutch disk, a new one is probably fine, though an alternative path might be to seek out an original one from the '60s-'80s on Ebay or elsewhere.

groupdeville said:

For a clutch disk, a new one is probably fine, though an alternative path might be to seek out an original one from the '60s-'80s on Ebay or elsewhere.

Click to expand...

Another route is to see if your local independent parts store can send it out to be relined. It's been awhile back, but my local store was able to have a Stag clutch relined for me. Took less than a week, cost was a fraction of having a new one shipped from the UK. I only put maybe 10,000 miles on it before the car was sidelined for other reasons, but it worked fine (including first in class at the 2005 VTR autocross).

The only times I've ever pulled a TR3 clutch because it needed work was when I broke a taper pin, and that time I put in the wrong TOB. Usually it winds up being something else before the clutch needs attention. I even put back all the components from the wrecked TR3A (with perhaps 50,000 miles on the clutch) when I moved it to the current TR3! (Although in all fairness, it's a TR4A clutch to go with the aluminum flywheel.) Now it looks like I'll be changing synchro rings before the friction plate wears out.

Dang 2nd gear synchro is only 20 years old (and probably over 150,000 miles on it).

I used to order the "full kit" but lately (last three or four cars I have done it one, three LBCs, one old BMW) have been just replacing the disc and throw out bearing with no issues. Now you guys have me wondering about the bearing. I haven't had any issues.

The bearing that failed on me, iirc, had a somewhat tapered shape (or bevel) on the back side of the bearing housing (facing the transmission), whereas if one looks at an old original Triumph (Borg & Beck?) bearing, the back edge is more-or-less parallel to the front thrust face. Sorry to not be more precise - it's been a long while, and I doubt if I still have the one that failed to take a photo.

The good news is that (though somewhat heavier) the TR2-TR4 clutch is a simple and sturdy unit compared to the more problematic TR4A-TR6 design, and free play can be set manually for long clutch disc and throwout bearing life. A lightened flywheel is also a nice thing to do.

As usual, you've all given me additional food for thought.

Since Winter is coming (my best excuse) I'll probably wait until Spring before making a decision.

Thanks to all who responded.

mgf