TR2/3/3A TR3A steering rebuild help

[Dan_Pasta]

I'm refreshing the steering on my 59 TR3. The silentbloc bushing on the driver side is completly shot .... the one on the passenger side is not far behind.

Since the bushings will need to be pressed in I've decided to remove the whole steering assembly (tie rods idler arms etc.) as a unit and check everything while I was at it. My problem is in removing the Drop arm nut (the one that bolts onto the rocker shaft below the drop arm). There doesn't seem to be enough clearance to get a socket or wrench in there ... Do I need to further disassemble frame/suspension to get at it ..... do I need a special tool of some sort ... bigger hammer .... cutting torch ..... dynamite .... more beer ..... well the beer is a given, but any tricks out there????

Thanks in advance
Dan

 

[mcguijo]

Although I'm an advocate of hammers and beer, I think only both would serve to be therapeutic in this case. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

If I understand you correctly, you want to get at removing the drop arm from the rocker shaft assembly?? Take a big swig of beer because I think the whole steering box has to come out to do that, i.e., I had to get mine pressed off. If you have a split steering column (which I assume you do) it may be easier to do this--meaning you don't have to undo the steering wheel. Essentially you undo the nyloc nut holding the silentbloc on the tie-rod to the drop arm. Next remove the bolts on the holding the trunnion bracket in the holdie thingie on the chassis frame. The steering unit (assuming you've undone everything else) is "drawn forward and downward". The whole steering unit essentially slides out underneath the front bumper. Take the unit to your mechanic and get the drop arm pressed off. Pick yourself up another six pack while your out.

 

[TRTEL]

Dan, Unless you're certain that you have a problem with the steering box also,I would say leave it in the car and just separate things at the tie rod (silent bloc bush from the steering arm.)
Tom Lains

 

[Dan_Pasta]

That's my problem ...... my steering box seems to be just fine .... and after I've "popped" the ball joints off they also look pretty darn good, but I really REALLY need to replace the silentbloc bushings ..... I did a thread search and the threads lead me to believe that the bushings needed to be "pressed out" to remove them, and "pressed in" to install them, that's why I've found myself slowly disassembling the entire car trying to get the center tie rod out ..... I banged on them for a day or two without being able to remove them (which led me to conduct the thread search ... I'm a slow learner).

Is there a "trick" to remove and install the silentbloc bushings without all of the disassembly. I'd rather not remove the steering box if it can be avoided.

 

[Geo Hahn]

[ QUOTE ]
Is there a "trick" to remove and install the silentbloc bushings without all of the disassembly. I'd rather not remove the steering box if it can be avoided.

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry, I have not attempted that as yet. One 'trick' I have often heard and you might keep in mind for removing the silentbloc is to get the flex bit out (probably loose and shot) and then use a hacksaw blade to cut thru the side of the metal sleeve... then it should come out okay. I think the idea is that when all that is left in there is the metal cylinder there isn't much to press against to remove it.

 

[sp53]

Hi Dan and yes I would not remove the large nut that holds the drop arm on because it is not necessary. You should be able to just use a pickle fork and undo each side of the connecting shaft from inside the inner fender well. After that, I would take it in and have them pressed in; however, it seems that many people just do them at home with a vise and a socket. You might want to make sure that the new pins are the right size because a couple of thousands makes a difference. I heard that Moss had the best selection.
George

 

[Dan_Pasta]

[ QUOTE ]
Hi Dan and yes I would not remove the large nut that holds the drop arm on because it is not necessary. You should be able to just use a pickle fork and undo each side of the connecting shaft from inside the inner fender well. After that, I would take it in and have them pressed in; however, it seems that many people just do them at home with a vise and a socket. You might want to make sure that the new pins are the right size because a couple of thousands makes a difference. I heard that Moss had the best selection.
George

[/ QUOTE ]

I've tried to use a pickle fork ..... tried to bang on the "fitting" using the two big hammer routine ..... tried to put a socket over the top of the silentbloc bushing and forcing the screw end up using a large C-clamp .... nothing seems to work. That is why I started to attack the steering system at points easier to disassemble, I'm determined to get those bushings replaced one way or another.

I'm thinking of maybe trying to apply some heat to the fitting and reattempting to force them out this weekend.

 

[Tinkerman]

Hi Dan:
Thought I would stick my 2 cents worth in on this one. I am doing a frame off on a 60-3A. The front end was the first thing I did. For your greater fund of knowledge, there are 392 parts in the front end, exclusive of fastners. I don't beleive you can get the silent bloc bushings out without taking the connector off. I have a good solid "bang upon table" and a stout vice. What I did was put a nut on the threaded end,(for something to hit) inverted the assembly on the vice jaws and walloped the tar out of the bushing with a large hammer. Beer came later, heh. When I say wallop I mean WALLOP. Did the job. Put the new ones in the same basic way. I cheated and used WD-40, and they went in quite nicely. Did not have to use as much force.

Good Luck,

Please feel free to email me with any questions, tinkerman@citlink.net

Good Luck, Tinkerman

 

[Don Elliott]

When I did mine, I had the center bar in my 6" vice on my workbench and I couldn't press or hammer out the silent-bloc bushes. I used a grinder to shorten the center stud, then forced out the rest of the stud, then the rubber and with my die grinder, I was able to "bore" out the metal sheath. The new ones were then pressed in without difficulty. I now have 87,000 miles on them and with new silent-blocs on the shelf, I'll have to tackle the job with it all assembled. I'll start by using the same methods as above.

Don Elliott

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/1919/ppuser/4127

 

[Dan_Pasta]

Which brings us back to my original question .....

How did you get the drop arm off of the steering rocker shaft? I've got the two ball joints removed from the outer tie rod/center tie rod joint, but I'm having difficulty getting to the nut holding the steering drop arm onto the rocker shaft assembly to remove it.

Prior posters make me believe that that joint is also pressed on, so now I'm wondering if that is the right way to go. If I can just "slide it on and off (with a little persuation of course) taking the center tie rod out is the way to go ...... but now I'm not sure.

 

[sp53]

Hi Dan taking the nut off is not a big deal; however, getting the drop arm is a big job. They are pressed on at about- heck 200+psi. Every time I have taken one off it actually makes that pop sound that sounds like something just broke. I do not think you will get it off while it is in the car. Go after the silent blocks and perhaps if you back up the steering system with some blocks of wood or maybe kick a 2x4 off to the wall, so there is no give on the other side. Then make sure the pickle fork is a nice fit. In addition, I find a short handle four pound hammer works best and perhaps most importantly swing the hammer from a good comfortable position, so you can put some lunch behind it. I worked as a carpenter for many many years and swinging a hammer is an art. So back the stuff up with something by doing some sold prep work and hit the mother.

George