TR2/3/3A Should be oil in a TR3A steering rack, right?

[jdubois]

I decided to try and see what was wrong with the steering on my '60 TR3A, so first thing I did was take the top off the steering gearbox to assess the situation there. I took it off and everything was covered in grease. According to the workshop manual I've got, it should be 90 weight gear oil in there.

Any reason it would be grease, other than that somebody didn't know what they were doing? Can I just clean the grease out of gearbox, or should I really take the whole rack apart and clean it all out? That's not a job I really want to do unless I have to do it.

 

[Twosheds]

What's wrong with the steering?

Are you sure the steering unit is the culprit? I don't think that grease would cause a problem. If the steering unit is worn, you'll have to remove it, clean it out, and rebuild it anyway. If you find that another component is the culprit (like the idler arm, which was bad on mine), I would leave the steering unit alone. You could put oil in there in addition to the grease. Unless it irks you that the wrong lubricant is in there.

I just like saying culprit.

By the way, I'm assuming that you're calling the steering unit the rack, not saying that the car has been converted to rack & pinion steering. I don't know if rack & pinion steering is lubricated with grease or oil.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha,

I have used a smear of grease on the worm gear, however the oil is necessary to lubricate the bushing and shaft going down to the Pitman arm. I would suggest cleaning out the grease and refill with oil. I wouldn't be concerned if you left some grease on the in the grooves of the worm.

Also grease all of the zerk fitting on the front of the car.

A common cause of stiff steering (more than usual) is the idler arm assembly. Hardened grease can block new grease entering and a perished seal can allow moisture in that will seize it up. Remove the steering arms from it and see it you can turn it easily, if not it is easy to remove, disassemble and clean up. I recently had to do this job, and after I got it out of the car, I need a large vice and pipe extension to get enough leverage to unthread the idler arm from the housing.

 

[jdubois]

What's wrong with the steering? Are you sure the steering unit is the culprit?

The steering isn't actually that bad, just generally quite stiff, and adjusting the gearbox screw doesn't help. But no, I'm definitely not sure it's the gearbox that's the problem. The whole system was rebuilt about four years and a few hundred miles ago, so I don't think it's anything that's worn but more likely something not installed correctly.

By the way, I'm assuming that you're calling the steering unit the rack, not saying that the car has been converted to rack & pinion steering.

Yes, correct. It's the original steering unit, I'm calling it a rack for lack of a better term.

A common cause of stiff steering (more than usual) is the idler arm assembly.

Thanks, I'll be sure to check the idler arms as well. I think I'll clean out the excess grease in the gearbox, refill with oil, and then move on to idler arms, etc.

 

[Geo Hahn]

The grease is a common PO 'fix' for a leaking box (BTW it is usually called the 'steering box' rather than rack).

I have heard that Land Rovers specify grease on a similar box, perhaps due to the possibility of water submersion... so the grease thing isn't totally out of leftfield.

Usually a problem steering box is too loose rather than too tight -- but as noted, many other compnents can cause tight steering or hard steering.

 

[PeterK]

Something else to check.

I just finished rebuilding my entire front end, suspension and steering, and found that most of the threaded holes that the grease fittings screw into were totally blocked by a plug of solid (old) grease.

In addition to replacing or soaking out all of the old grease fittings in kerosene, I would recommend digging out each and every hole. Even though I would pump grease into the fitting, no of it ever really went where it was supposed to go.

 

[Tinkerman]

FWIW I would replace all of the old zerk fittings rather than try to clean them. They are inexpensive and readily available at most auto parts houses.
Tinkerman

 

[Geo Hahn]

jdubois -- since you're just getting into this you may not realize... the routine way to fill steering box is thru a hole in the steering column a couple of inches below the connector that joins the lower and upper sections. Probably has a rubber plug in it that you should 'prise' out.

 

[YankeeTR]

Something else to check.

I just finished rebuilding my entire front end, suspension and steering, and found that most of the threaded holes that the grease fittings screw into were totally blocked by a plug of solid (old) grease.

In addition to replacing or soaking out all of the old grease fittings in kerosene, I would recommend digging out each and every hole. Even though I would pump grease into the fitting, no of it ever really went where it was supposed to go.

Peter is on to something.

Greases that were commonly used prior to the 1970's were often old technology, long strand lithium-based products that did not mix well with 'modern' lubricants. I remember that, in the auto trade, we were always advised to remove ALL old grease from wheel bearings when doing a re-pack. There was a chance that the old grease would not mix with the new stuff causing premature wear and bearing failure.

The older greases would get hard...I think that's a real concern when you find your zerk fittings are plugged.

 

[karls59tr]

I've heard it said that if the TR3 steering box isn't leaking,it's out of oil!

 

[jdubois]

Well, I took everybody's advice and moved past the grease in the steering box. So my next step (I suppose should have been my first step, but...) was to jack the front wheels off the ground and check the steering then. Well, it's fine with the wheels off the ground, smooth and easy lock to lock. So, I guess I'll just check the tire pressure and call it ok.

I did buy one of those top covers with the spring loaded adjustment pin to see if it would get rid of the slight changes in resistance both sides of center. Didn't get it installed though. It appears that the bottom of the tube they welded into the top cover, which holds hollowed out adjustment bolt, is binding with the top of the rocker arm when the cover is screwed down all the way. I'm going to take it in to work tomorrow and grind down the tube so it's flat with the bottom surface of the top cover and try installing it again.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha,

Where did you get the steering box cover with the spring loaded pin? I've been looking around but haven't found a source. Herman van den Akker is no longer fabricating them
so I need another source.

 

[jdubois]

Revington TR in Somerset. They had it across the pond in about a week, and shipping was only around $18. Obviously would be a bit more to your neck of the woods.

https://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_...uctID=RTR3075LK

 

[PeterK]

British Frame and engine sells them too. Chassis part No. 5 $75 https://www.britishframeandengine.com/parts1.html

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha & Mahalo,

That is just what I was looking for. The Revington page has a very good description of how it is supposed to work. Thanks again.

 

[TR3driver]

Well, it's fine with the wheels off the ground, smooth and easy lock to lock. So, I guess I'll just check the tire pressure and call it ok.

FWIW, I found a substantial difference in steering effort between oil & grease in the box. Not sure why that is, doesn't make a lot of sense, but I could definitely tell the difference.

Later, after many years of daily driving, I finally "got around" to rebuilding the box ... the difference then was simply amazing ! Made me feel stupid for not having done it years before. In retrospect, I attribute that to 3 things :

1) Wear in the bushing in the bottom allows the arm to tilt under steering force, causing the peg to bind in the worm.

2) Having the box on the bench made it possible to get the adjustments "just right" using a dial indicator. I even tried doing it "by feel" first; indicator said I was off by .004".

3) With the new bushing and seal, I felt confident in switching to (expensive) full synthetic gear oil (Valvoline).

Afterwards, I could literally change lanes with just thumb & forefinger !

BTW, if you have the later 'split' column, the box can be removed without pulling the front apron.

 

[MDCanaday]

I like to us a little trick,when the box is getting completely re-built and is being re-assembled.Pack the lowest part of the unit with very heavy wheelbearing grease, then you can fill it with 70/90 as recomended and it will never leak out.Even with new seals and bushes it will still leak if you dont!!
MD(mad dog)