TR2/3/3A Steering box rebuild TR3A

[Bremer]

I searched, but couldn't find a thread on this.
The rocker shaft moves visibly left and right when turning the wheel, I'm thinking a rebuild is in order. Studying the exploded drawing, it appears to be a fairly straightforward job. I am planning to order the rocker shaft bushing, oil seal, top cover and cover plate gaskets, several shims, and Penrite steering box oil. I remember reading that the peg in the rocker shaft can be re-used if worn by pushing it out, turning it 90 degrees and re-inserting it, can somebody confirm that?
The bearing assemblies don't seem to be available. Do they normally need replacing, and if yes, where could I order them?
How about the cam ("worm"), can I expect it to be worn?
Any special procedures that should be followed, or special tooling required?
Thanks!

 

[Number_6]

Check out this link, a pretty thorough description of how to rebuild the steering box for a TR3:

Steering Box Rebuild

 

[TR3driver]

It is reasonably straightforward. The book says the bushing needs to be reamed after installation, but mine didn't. Only hard part was getting the arm off (and a proper Pitman arm puller would likely have made that much easier).

TRF has the bearings listed, PN 60373 and 60371.

While I've heard the same thing about the peg, I just replaced mine and didn't have to worry about it being turned just so (or someone having already turned it).

Your worm might well be worn, mine was. But they were unavailable at the time, so I chose to live with it. It caused a little extra play on-center, but not enough to be bothersome to me. I believe Moss will now sell you just the worm (leaving you to figure out how to properly install it on the shaft), or TRF will install a new worm on your shaft (for a price).

My opinion, Penrite is only for boxes that won't seal with more effective lubricants inside. I use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil, which I believe is slicker (for less steering effort) and provides better protection than the "semi-grease" Penrite.

I used a dial indicator for setting the shaft end float. Tried doing it "by feel" first and missed the mark by .004".

Don't forget the bushing for the upper end of the column.

 

[Bremer]

Good info, much appreciated.
Mine is a two piece non-adjustable column. How many of the felt bushings will I need?

 

[TR3driver]

Only one felt bushing (at the steering wheel end). (Actually, I turned up a piece of Delrin to use in place of the felt.) However, there are two composite (rubber, steel & nylon) bushings that go in the ends just below and above the coupling in the middle of the two-piece column (Stanpart 606630). They might not be worn badly enough to need replacement, but mine were in pretty bad shape.

 

[ekamm]

I did the 90 degree turn and worked fine. There was no notable damage or wear to the worm so I used it it all was fine. The bushing is the only difficult part but after reading some where the reamer wasn't really necessary I used a small brake cylinder hone with some patience and checking the fit often I got mine to fit well. What I didn't do and wish that I had was to replace the shaft as I could feel a definite worn spot after getting the bushing right. The shaft was slightly worn and I'm sure that the feel would be much better with a new shaft. I should have listened to Randall. If I get in there again I definitely will.

 

[Tinkerman]

There is a modified Pitman arm puller that I modified some time back I offered it to the forum as a loaner. I think that it is up in Canada somewhere. Maybe Don Elliot knows where it is. It sure made popping that arm off real easy.
Good luck, Tinkerman

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Here's how I replaced my worm. "https://goo.gl/kerds" I wish I could tell you how well it works, but the body work isn't finished and I've never driven the car. When I replaced the bushing, I did have to ream it to fit. It came from Moss some time ago.

 

[TR3driver]

FWIW, although I forget the size offhand, the reamer is a standard fractional size (like maybe 13/16"). The clearance is built into the shaft.

I really hate those adjustable reamers with the sliding blades; seems like I can never get a decent surface finish with them and I've ruined more than one piece of work because the reamer dug in and cut oversize. So if you do need to ream, I'd suggest buying a fixed "chucking" reamer in HSS from one of the discount places like Enco
https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=70&PARTPG=INLMK32

If you don't happen to have a chuck that big, a little work with a grinding wheel will produce a square on the end of the shaft that you can slide a 12 point socket onto.