Steering Box Leak

[Martinld123]

Hello. I need help with a leaking steering box on my 1956 BN2 Austin Healey. I have replaced old oil with
the new heavy weight oil from Moss, but still leaks oil badly.

Time to order parts and take it apart, but I need a starting point.

Thanks, Marty

 

[Healey Nut]

Replace the oil with corn head grease and double up on the seals if the pocket is deep enough. That’s the fix for the cars with the later steering boxes .

 

[kozelding]

I just did this very repair last night!

As others have said, you can definitely replace the oil seal in situ: if you take the cover off the steering box, there's room to pull up the shaft high enough to clear the bottom seal.

Mine was very easy to do because the steering level was loose on the shaft. It doesn't look like there's much room to get a puller on it, but others have posted here that you can get a small pittman puller in there.

FWIW, I did everything with the steering at full lock to the left, which gave me easy access to all the tie rod connections and got the tire out of the way — I didn't even raise the car.

 

[Martinld123]

Replace the oil with corn head grease and double up on the seals if the pocket is deep enough. That’s the fix for the cars with the later steering boxes .

Thanks, I will do both. The seal is on order from Moss Motors along with Corn Head grease from Internet so I will call your idea plan A while pulling the seal is plan B which seams like the hardest thing to do although might be best for long haul but time will tell. One other thing. Any idea what is best way to get old Dynolite and Penrite grease out? I am sure it is a mix. I put both in thinking same but not I am sure. Now will be three. Thanks Marty

 

[Martinld123]

I just did this very repair last night!

As others have said, you can definitely replace the oil seal in situ: if you take the cover off the steering box, there's room to pull up the shaft high enough to clear the bottom seal.

Mine was very easy to do because the steering level was loose on the shaft. It doesn't look like there's much room to get a puller on it, but others have posted here that you can get a small pittman puller in there.

FWIW, I did everything with the steering at full lock to the left, which gave me easy access to all the tie rod connections and got the tire out of the way — I didn't even raise the car.

Thanks. I will try your idea next. Anything I do will require removing old Dynolite and Penrite grease mix. Any ideas? Thanks Marty

 

[Bob_Spidell]

You can fill the box with a good solvent and work the wheel back-and-forth to mix and agitate the solvent, then let it (slowly) drain down the rocker shaft when you have the seal out or suck the diluted oils out with an extractor (something like this)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0836GH3G7/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=5739b19accb85917d77e41fb30f2e47d&content-id=amzn1.sym.53aae2ac-0129-49a5-9c09-6530a9e11786%3Aamzn1.sym.53aae2ac-0129-49a5-9c09-6530a9e11786&hsa_cr_id=0&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=04d7698e-9d91-4b43-8dea-aa674b75a7fe&pd_rd_w=319Wk&pd_rd_wg=0G3Cd&qid=1663968597&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_lsi4d_asin_0_img&sr=1-1-a094db1c-5033-42c6-82a2-587d01f975e8

You might be able to pressurize the box with air to speed up the draining.

 

[kozelding]

I actually thought the Penrite stuff was already pretty high viscosity?

If it's fluid, you could try pumping it out with something like Bob suggests or just > Gear Oil and Fluid Pump < (maybe add some light oil to the mix to thin it out?)

That said, I'm not sure I'd worry about it. Until you fix the oil seal, it'll keep leaking and you can keep adding thicker grease until eventually you have a high viscosity fill. (And, at least if it's leaking, you know the steering shaft is getting lubricated

 

[red57]

When considering pressurizing the box, remember there is no seal on the upper shaft going to the steering wheel except the felt bush right near the steering wheel - you risk pushing oil out the upper end into the trafficator/interior. I think the suction device is much better, or as kozelding said, just let it drip and keep topping it up until the thin stuff is gone.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

When considering pressurizing the box, remember there is no seal on the upper shaft going to the steering wheel except the felt bush right near the steering wheel - you risk pushing oil out the upper end into the trafficator/interior. ...

Good point. Keep the pressure low, maybe 10psi or so.

 

[John Turney]

Good point. Keep the pressure low, maybe 10psi or so.

10 psi is about 9 psi too high.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Maybe. I haven't tried so can't say for sure (10psi is about 20inches of Hg). I use 10+psi to pressure bleed my brakes, and barely get a trickle at the slaves.

 

[Martinld123]

Thanks for all the great help and ideas. I have the Corn Head Grease and the new seal now. At a $1..39 I decided to get two. A spare is always nice to have. What is the best way to mark the steering lever to make sure I get it back to the same spot to center steering wheel? My guess would be to turn steering wheel to center and then push lever back on. Is it that simple? It will locate itself if I do not move car? Thanks

 

[BobHaskell]

I think that you'll find that the lever can only go on the shaft four different ways. Four splines are "missing" on the shaft. So note the position of the lever when the front wheels are straight a head (steering wheel centered) and the top the lever.

 

[John Turney]

I think that you'll find that the lever can only go on the shaft four different ways. Four splines are "missing" on the shaft. So note the position of the lever when the front wheels are straight a head (steering wheel centered) and the top the lever.

Agree. Three of the four ways are obviously wrong.

 

[kozelding]

You will want to make sure the steering peg goes back into the worm gear in the same place (in the steering box).

So mark/remember the alignment of the peg before you pull up the shaft — then don't turn the steering wheel when the shaft is loose.

Then if you don't move any of the wheels when everything is apart, the geometry of the tie-rods will verify that the lever went back in the place it was. (That is, everything will only reassemble easily in one way.)

 

[Martinld123]

Thanks. I will try your idea next. Anything I do will require removing old Dynolite and Penrite grease mix. Any ideas? Thanks Marty

I finally got around to doing this. I think I will need a mini pittman puller. I measured only 2" of room to install puller. Going on their website now. Maybe one for tie rod end? Thanks Marty

 

[kozelding]

There's an example puller referenced in this thread: > Steering Box oil seals FYI : The 3000 Forum : The Austin-Healey Experience <

BTW, pro tip: unless you're going to fill the box with corn head sludge, replace the steering box cover gasket too! I'm running 85W-140 gear oil in mine, and after replacing the bottom shaft gasket, nothing leaks out of the bottom — but after disassembling and reassembling everything, oil now leaks out from under the top cover.

 

[Martinld123]

There's an example puller referenced in this thread: > Steering Box oil seals FYI : The 3000 Forum : The Austin-Healey Experience <

BTW, pro tip: unless you're going to fill the box with corn head sludge, replace the steering box cover gasket too! I'm running 85W-140 gear oil in mine, and after replacing the bottom shaft gasket, nothing leaks out of the bottom — but after disassembling and reassembling everything, oil now leaks out from under the top cover.

This is puller I got from Harbor Freight. I seems to be a little too large to fit in my 1956 BN2. This is the closest to right size I have found yet but still too large with A arms in way. Any ideas on better puller? Thanks Marty

 

[red57]

Hi Marty,
It looks like your puller is close to the same size as mine - I had to grind open the jaws a little to get it to fit over the pitman arm, otherwise it measures just over 3 1/2" wide by 3 1/2" high plus the threaded screw.
I have 6 cylinder cars and they may be slightly different? Anyway, it's been a while since I pulled the arm without pulling the whole steering box out but IRCC I had to remove the steering box mounting bolts and slide the box forward a little bit and rotate it to one side or the other to get the puller on. I'm sorry I don't remember any more details but I hope this helps.
Dave

 

[Martinld123]

Hello. I need help with a leaking steering box on my 1956 BN2 Austin Healey. I have replaced old oil with
the new heavy weight oil from Moss, but still leaks oil badly.

Time to order parts and take it apart, but I need a starting point.

Thanks, Marty

Hi Marty,
It looks like your puller is close to the same size as mine - I had to grind open the jaws a little to get it to fit over the pitman arm, otherwise it measures just over 3 1/2" wide by 3 1/2" high plus the threaded screw.
I have 6 cylinder cars and they may be slightly different? Anyway, it's been a while since I pulled the arm without pulling the whole steering box out but IRCC I had to remove the steering box mounting bolts and slide the box forward a little bit and rotate it to one side or the other to get the puller on. I'm sorry I don't remember any more details but I hope this helps.
Dave

Dave, I have the same tool. I will grind jaws to fit and move steering box. I was hoping for an easier fix, but that is the fun of working on a Healey, lol.