With the engine out what should I replace?

[19MGA60]

I just took the engine out of my 1977 MGB to replace the transmission. What items should I replace know that the engine is out? I plan on the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, the timing chain, tensioner, waterpump and thermostat and the motor mounts and transmission mounts. Should I do the u joints? Please give me your ideas.

Thanks, Tom

 

[Guest]

main and rod bearings are really easy to do at that point

 

[Bret]

Don’t forget to replace the engines (Tappet/Lifter) side cover(s) gaskets. This is a notorious oil leak area. Especially if you are still running the original Zenith Stromberg setup (or did for any length of time), because of the heat generated by the Catalytic converter. I replaced mine some time ago and my puddles are about 1/10th of what they used to be. To be safe I’d replace them.

[ 02-16-2004: Message edited by: Bret ]</p>

 

[chris roop]

Rear main seal and the input shaft seal in the tranny.

 

[Guest]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 19MGA60:
I just took the engine out of my 1977 MGB to replace the transmission. What items should I replace know that the engine is out? I plan on the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, the timing chain, tensioner, waterpump and thermostat and the motor mounts and transmission mounts. Should I do the u joints? Please give me your ideas.

Thanks, Tom<hr></blockquote>

Well, personally, I would change definitely the clutch parts and look at the flywheel to see if it needs resurfacing. I wouldn't change the timing chain or the tensioner unless I was rebuilding the engine. If you do replace the chain, change to dual sprockets and a dual chain. Does it need the engine rebuilt? How many miles are on the engine? Is it using oil?
As far as the thermostat and water pump are conserned, they aren't that hard to change with the engine in the car and I have also changed the mounts with it in the car although, of course, it would be easier with it out. I also wait until the u- joints are making noise to change. I haven't done this but twice in 22 years. Definitely do the rear seal.
Bob

 

[David Brotchie]

I will be changing the lifter cover gaskets on my 79 MGB this weekend. The gaskets are realy thick rubber. Do they also get scilcone sealer? Hanes Manual doesn't say.

 

[William]

Core plugs if they're leaking. Since the radiator's most likely out too, seems like a good time to flush it out.
-William

 

[Guest]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by David Brotchie:
I will be changing the lifter cover gaskets on my 79 MGB this weekend. The gaskets are realy thick rubber. Do they also get scilcone sealer? Hanes Manual doesn't say.<hr></blockquote>

I usually do. It isn't absolutely necessary but if you have the time, you can seal the gaskit to the cover and let it set overnight or several hours then put it on the engine. It will have less of a chance to slip out of place that way. Make sure you have gotten all traces of oil off the gaskit surfaces too.
Bob

 

[aeronca65t]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Chuck Cougill:
main and rod bearings are really easy to do at that point<hr></blockquote>


I'll second this. Be sure to check the crankshaft with a micrometer before buying new ones. I change the rod bearings in my racer at least once a year.....it's the cheapest way to prevent loud, expensive noises.

 

[tony barnhill]

With the engine out: 'everything' if you've not refreshed it in the last 25,000 or so miles or don't know its history! Advice my granddad gave me way back when, "Son, if you open an engine, don't do a half-a$$ed job in there - replace everything and only do it once."

 

[Bruce74B]

That's funny...my daddy always said "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

But my daddy never drove a 30 YO LBC...if you have the time and money, now is a good time to do whatever you can to avoid having to to it later. I agree with the above oil seal suggestings as well as a new sump gasket for the oil pan.

Bruce