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TR2/3/3A Replacing engine and gearbox mounts?

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K

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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Is it possible to do this by supporting and jacking the motor at the oil pan for access and not removing the radiator and front cowl?
 
It was for me. I found it a struggle but easier if I went for each side of the engine separately more of a tilt.
you may have to slacken the exhaust ?
There is more flexibility changing the gearbox Mount as it will lift. But needs to be done from the top

I fitted the hardest race versions from revington tr in uk. They work well and great for road cars.
 
It is possible. I did a TR3B a while ago by supporting the engine then removing the mounts. I was working in my inspection pit which made life a bit easier than laying on the ground.

David
 
Good to know it's doable. What did you use to protect the oil pan? Did you have to tilt the motor and do one side at a time? Karl
 
I also did mine by loosening both sides and the transmission mount and then undoing and lifting one side at a time by lifting the engine with wood under the oil pan. I was on my back, and my son was probably manning the jack. I forget where I got the new mounts, but I recall that after quite a bit of unsuccessful struggle I had to cut a couple bolts to the length of the originals rather than try to jack the engine any higher. For what it’s worth, when I had the nose off some time later, I saw that the bolts I had the most difficult time with were now perfectly accessible.

Steve
 
Stevenry said:
I also did mine by loosening both sides and the transmission mount and then undoing and lifting one side at a time by lifting the engine with wood under the oil pan. I was on my back, and my son was probably manning the jack. I forget where I got the new mounts, but I recall that after quite a bit of unsuccessful struggle I had to cut a couple bolts to the length of the originals rather than try to jack the engine any higher. For what it’s worth, when I had the nose off some time later, I saw that the bolts I had the most difficult time with were now perfectly accessible.

Steve
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. With the nose off would it also be necessary to remove the radiator for access to the bolts?
 
Sorry for a slow response. I’m not sure about the radiator. The issue with the mounts with the nose on was really that from under the car there was no way to see at least one of the bolts or nuts, and doing it by feel, 1/8 turn of the wrench at a time, and not much space for my hands. When I had the nose off at a later time, the radiator was out anyway to replace a camshaft. Then, the bolts I had most struggled with were right in front of me. Doing it again, I’d rather struggle for a few hours with the bolts than take off the nose if there was no other reason to remove the nose. I do think, though, that whenever I do remove the nose, I’ll replace the mounts while I’m there.

Steve
 
I think I had to shorten the studs on the engine mounts to get them in place but also reduce the nut screwing on the longer stud. I think I also went to a locking washer and plain nut and not a nyloc nut that way you can wind it on loose and just tighten rather than struggling to tighten a nyloc before it’s even seated on the bottom hard to reach nut.
It’s been a while so forgive the vagueness
 
Quick ticket on the tranny mount. Put it in a zip lock bag, punch holes for the studs/bolts. It is now
protected from oil( that is what kills rear mounts) looks weird, but saves doing the job every decade .....
 
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