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TR2/3/3A what bolts should i use to mount engine on an engine stand?

2billydavies

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hi everyone... im a few bolts away from pulling the engine. any suggestions as to the size and type of bolts i need to use to mount the engine onto my engine stand? trying to avoid the guessing game! where can i buy these bolts? thanks so much!
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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Definitely use grade 8 bolts. Are you stripping it entirely? By chance are you leaving the flywheel on? This will require some shim washers and longer bolts if you are.

Cheers
Tush
 
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2billydavies

2billydavies

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Thanks for the response. I plan on taking the flywheel off. I know I have to use grade 8 bolts... I guess my question is this: Do these bolts screw right into the spots that the bell housing gets screwed into? Meaning, the size I need is the exact same size as the bolts that holds the bell housing on? They seem awfully "skinny" to me, to hold all of that weight. My engine stand has 4 mounts... so basically 4 skinny grade 8 bolts right into the bell housing will support the entire engine on a stand?

Also... one last question: I already took the cylinder head off a few days ago. Do you suggest I wrap my chain/heavy rope around the engine a few times to hoist it out or do you think it's better to actually bolt the chain somewhere onto the engine and hoist it out that way? sling vs bolting the chain directly on motor? If it's bolting on.... where should I bolt it to??

Thanks so much! I"m a few bolts away from pulling. super excited. lol
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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I don't have the length of bolts for you, but I can tell you what I did.

I did use the threaded holes in the bellhousing for 3 of the connection points. For the 4th as a "safety" with a little more sturdy bolt, I used one of the starter holes with a bolt washer and nut on the and of it.

I did use some washers on the end of the engine hoist arms to spread the load a little bit across the flange.

I didn't remove my flywheel and used some washers for spacers so my mounting is a little different but with the same principal.

Some video of it here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PJQUJLrt70

Cheers
Tush
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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Oh, and to answer you engine lifting question, I used a couple of lifting straps each rated at 1500 lbs to lift my engine up and out. They work great for this application as you can utilize things like the front motor mounts and the starter opening to keep the straps from sliding forward and aft when lifting.

Cheers
Tush
 

CJD

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It sounds like Tush has you all filled in! I'll confirm, as I have my engine sitting on the stand right now using 5/16-18 bolts that are 1/2" longer than the mount extensions with washers...So in your case 3 bolts that are 1-5/8" long. The 4th bolt can be 2" long, and will need a nut since it goes through the starter bolt hole, which is not tapped, but is a through hole. I plan to brace the front of the engine for storage, as I even have the generator mounted to it.

For lifting, do not be tempted to use the head studs, and do not even allow the chains to contact them during the lift, as you WILL crack the block if you do. There are several decent places to bolt a chain to the engine. Be sure to tighten the chain right up against the block, or the bolts will bend and it will increase the chance of cracking the block. Tighten the chain right down. Some possibilities... Bell housing mounting holes, front plate or it's mounting holes.

If you use a strap, you will need some way to prevent it from sliding. I've never been a strap lifter, myself, since I have had several friends drop pricey parts when the straps slid off.
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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It sounds like Tush has you all filled in! I'll confirm, as I have my engine sitting on the stand right now using 5/16-18 bolts that are 1/2" longer than the mount extensions with washers...So in your case 3 bolts that are 1-5/8" long. The 4th bolt can be 2" long, and will need a nut since it goes through the starter bolt hole, which is not tapped, but is a through hole. I plan to brace the front of the engine for storage, as I even have the generator mounted to it.

For lifting, do not be tempted to use the head studs, and do not even allow the chains to contact them during the lift, as you WILL crack the block if you do. There are several decent places to bolt a chain to the engine. Be sure to tighten the chain right up against the block, or the bolts will bend and it will increase the chance of cracking the block. Tighten the chain right down. Some possibilities... Bell housing mounting holes, front plate or it's mounting holes.

If you use a strap, you will need some way to prevent it from sliding. I've never been a strap lifter, myself, since I have had several friends drop pricey parts when the straps slid off.

Agreed. The TR3 engine kind of lends itself a little bit better for using straps. Since the front motor mount legs are on, it prevent the strap from sliding forward as there is a bit of a channel formed by the oil pan and these legs. I usually put the rear strap through the starter hole on the one side and in front of the road draft tube on the other side so it can slide rearward....

If I am doing my TR250 or my TR6, I use my Oberg Tilt lift attached directly to the lifting eyes.

Cheers
Tush
 

Jim_Stevens

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Are you saying don't use the stock lift eyes? The Rear one attaches to the head bolt and rear exhaust manifold bolt...
 

TBU_Triumph

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Hi Jim,

Yes, you can use the lifting eyes if the head is still securely bolted to the block. CJD is correctly advising you to not attach any lifting devices to the studs if you have already removed the head.

Collectively all the studs have more than enough capacity for you to lift the engine with the head firmly attached. You can create problems if you try to lift on individual studs. You could overload the stud in tension or put a bending load on it due to the angle of the chain or strap. The result is that you either strip the thread in the block due to the excess tension or crack the block due to the side load from bending.

I went through a similar process when figuring out the hardware to mount a TR4A engine on the stand. We had longer spacers on the mounting arms so could have left the flywheel in place but did not for other reasons.

I did use Grade 8 bolts. Remember that you cannot tighten them any tighter than the regular bolts that mount the flywheel housing to the block. You will strip the threads in the bolt if you tighten them more than normal torque.

I had to use a couple of sizes of hardened washers on each bolt to keep the bolts from pulling them into the mounting plate. The holes in the plate and spacer on our stand were at least 1/2" and we were using only 5/16" hardware. That left a lot of unsupported area underneath the bolt head. The first time I let the load off the hoist and on to the engine stand I watch the bolt heads start to pull the standard 5/16" washers into the plate! Definitely not a confidence builder!

My solution was to put a 5/16" hardened washer directly under the bolt head and then a 1/2" hardened washer between that washer and the engine mounting plate. Just manually center the 1/2" washer as you tighten the bolts.

And I did use 3/8" hardware through the starter mounting hole.

Rusty
 

Jim_Stevens

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That's what I figured, but ya' gotta take what guys say here seriously.
 

gbtr6

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I would get a engine leveler to lift the engine.
Even a cheap one like this will make life easier.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

Plus 1 on this leveler. I got one and it worked very well. It's not something you use all the time, maybe can loan it out to friends, but it is cheap and worth it. Also, I used the skinny grade 8's on my TR6 motor, and ran the through the stand arms and trough the bolt holes around the motor where the bell housing bolts on. Just used bolts, washers and nuts to tighten up. And the 6 motor weighs more, and it worked fine.

Perry
 
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