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Thunk from front caliper

bighly

Jedi Knight
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I have a single thunk when depressing the brakes coming from the right front caliper area. The brakes work great, no pulling excellent stopping etc. Besides pad removal and general cleanup any hunches? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

Michael Oritt

Yoda
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[ QUOTE ]
I have a single thunk when depressing the brakes coming from the right front caliper area.

[/ QUOTE ]

Dear Confused:

I had a similar noise in the front left wheel of my wife's 3000 due to a slight "shifting" of the OB pad within the caliper. Pull the wheel and see, with the brakes off, if there is a little play in one or both of the disks that might be the source.
 

Editor_Reid

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I imagine that you already thought of this and have checked it, but how is the condition of the splines on your hub and wire wheel? If the "thunk" is coming from that corner of the car, I'd check those splines and then make sure that the wire wheel in on tight. I apologize if this is so basic that you have already long ago ruled it out, but loose wire wheels and bad splines are a common cause of single thunks, and of wheels that depart company with the car at the worst possible time...
 
OP
bighly

bighly

Jedi Knight
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Reid,
No apoligies as this one is a real mystry. New splines new wheels. This sometimes goes away so perhaps it is a disk pad. But how do I stop it? I am using the anti sqweal plates (no sqweal, zero). Mike do you mean Outboard OB?
Perhaps I can try a good cleaning again and swap the pads left and right. Perhaps I can move the noise from right to left.
 

Michael Oritt

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Yes--OB is outboard
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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Bighly, are you using "Anti Squeal Plates" or the Anti squeal "PADS" ? If it is the Plates replace them with the pads if you do not find another source of your "Thunk.-FWIW---Keoke
 

bob hughes

Luke Skywalker
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Check the pistons out, I have the same problem and having removed the pistons from one caliper and checked them over, there is rust developing and causing the piston to stick, the thunk is the piston finally being released onto the disc. My other problem is that my discs are not true, one has a 1mm throw and the other 0.5mm throw, this is way over the maximum in the book. My plan will be either to replace the calipers or change the pistons to stainless steel ones and replace the discs.

Bob /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif
 
OP
bighly

bighly

Jedi Knight
Offline
I am using the anti-sqweal plates, a seperate shim, pad arrangement. The hubs are correct. The calipers are 2 years old. I tend to lean towards the caliper sticking then releasing with a thunk. Can this be remedied in-situ?
This interesting link was put up on the other forum concerning pad bed-in although I don't think this is a bed-in issue brake pad bed-in white paper link .
 

Blonde Healey Girl

Senior Member
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Tracy,
You may be able to pull the caliper and rotate the pistons 180 degrees.Keeps from have to re bleed. If rust was building it would move it away from the crude. We put Stainless pistons in and have no problems. You have to chuckle though. The thunk is actuality a good thing. It means you have SOME brakes.....No thunk, and having the pedal going to the floor tends to make things a little more sporty!!!
 
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