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Hello! I'm still shaking down my 1970 MGB that I bought from Dad. One local enthusiast said I should re-grease the front wheel bearings (who knows when that was last done). I'm doing some research on that and I'm trying to decide if I should re-grease them or just replace them while I'm at it. I found some instructions on their replacement, but nothing on just re-greasing. How much more difficult is it to replace them than to clean and grease them? Replacing them requires quite a bit of disassembly from what I see, and I'm not very mechanical (yet) -- but it looks like I have to remove them to re-grease them, anyway? Any advice? Thanks!
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MGB Front Wheel Bearings. Re-grease or replace?
- Thread starter joelodom
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They do have to come out regardless. ~$40 for new bearings and seals will do it.
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I'm not that familiar with the '70 MGB; ours is a '80. The bearing arrangement in ours is the same as the big Healeys. There's a distance piece and some shims between the inner and outer bearings that set the bearing preload. If you change the bearings, then you may need to change the shims installed. They come in various thicknesses: 0.003", 0.005", 0.010" and 0.025". For the Healeys, you try to get about 0.002" free play; with the MG you shoot for 0.000". Don't know why they're different. The workshop manual covers the adjustment.
Joe Reed
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Whether you replace them or repack/reuse the ones you have the process is the same......disassemble, pack the bearings, reassemble. New wheel bearings don't come pre-greased., so there really is no difference at all in the process. If you just service the ones you have the shims should still be within spec. If you use new ones, you may need to change the shim stack to keep them in spec.
This is, of course, unless you don't use the shim method and just install them using the no-shim method - just adjusting them like an old fashioned American car. It's always a huge debate on which method is correct, appropriate, necessary or safe. Needless to say, thousands of these cars are our there successfully doing it both ways.
Personally, my preference would be to inspect the old bearings and races and reuse them unless they looked suspect.
This is, of course, unless you don't use the shim method and just install them using the no-shim method - just adjusting them like an old fashioned American car. It's always a huge debate on which method is correct, appropriate, necessary or safe. Needless to say, thousands of these cars are our there successfully doing it both ways.
Personally, my preference would be to inspect the old bearings and races and reuse them unless they looked suspect.
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The original bearings were Timken DO NOT use any bearing from China. Clean the old bearings and
inspect them for any pitting or wear .If OK , repack with Amaloid red. It far exceeds you needs.
If they are NFG (nofreakingood) get Timken or the Japanese equal.
The red grease was what we used on the racer for 8 years with wheel bearings lasting 3 seasons!!
Mad dog
inspect them for any pitting or wear .If OK , repack with Amaloid red. It far exceeds you needs.
If they are NFG (nofreakingood) get Timken or the Japanese equal.
The red grease was what we used on the racer for 8 years with wheel bearings lasting 3 seasons!!
Mad dog
YakkoWarner
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Can someone clarify for me what the whole shim-stack system is about on these? I expect I will need to be visiting this job on mine (hopefully not years from now) and I'd like to be able to do it correctly - but all I have ever touched was the standard US style bearings in a heavy duty GM vehicle...
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It's covered in the workshop manual.
If playing with the shims, I oil the bearings and don't install the inboard seal. Install the inner bearing on the axle. Slip on the hub. The distance piece sits against the inner bearing's inner race. The shims go in next, followed by the outer bearing. I start with too many shims. Then the heavy washer and the castelated nut. I made a nut that sticks out of the hub. Use a test indicator with a magnetic base to measure the slop. The magnetic base sticks to the brake rotor and the indicator point sits on the nut. Push the hub in/out and read the distance the hub moves on the indicator. Adjust the shims accordingly. If the indicator says there's 0.010" play, I might only reduce the thickness of the shims by 0.008". Sneaking up on it. The hub should rotate freely with no noticeable play when you push/pull on the hub. When you're happy with the shims, take it apart, grease the bearings, set the inner bearing in the hub and install the seal. Put it back together.
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A "kit" of three or four of the various thickness shims ahead of time can make a big difference in how long the job can take if you have to replace bearings. If replacement is necessary, use Timken (even though some of those have been marked "Made in China" or other places lately). Timken conveniently still uses "Set 2" and "Set 6" for the outer and inner part number designations. They are "standard" sets and even RockAuto has 'em.
And the dial indicator setup can be problematic if you've got wire wheel hubs, BTW.
And the dial indicator setup can be problematic if you've got wire wheel hubs, BTW.
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Here's a mock up of the test indicator set up I use
I made a nut that extends past the end of the wire wheel hub
I made a nut that extends past the end of the wire wheel hub
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That's downright sexy, Bob!
My rig was crude. A piece of steel coat hanger wire threaded to fit the dial indicator stem.
Thanks, everyone for your help so far. I've been doing a lot of homework and have most of the parts now.
I may need to clean up the axle stub threads. I see it's a 16 TPI UNF thread, Whitworth, 55 degrees, major diameter is 0.680“ and minor is 0.610“, but I'm still not exactly sure how to make sure I order the correct thread chaser. I'd hate to mess up the threads. Can anyone help me know how to make sure I select the correct thread chaser? Thank you again!
I may need to clean up the axle stub threads. I see it's a 16 TPI UNF thread, Whitworth, 55 degrees, major diameter is 0.680“ and minor is 0.610“, but I'm still not exactly sure how to make sure I order the correct thread chaser. I'd hate to mess up the threads. Can anyone help me know how to make sure I select the correct thread chaser? Thank you again!
After some research, I don't think what I posted a little while ago is correct. I think that front axle stub is 16 TPI 5/8" UNF, and I should clean it up with a thread file. I've never used a thread file before and I don't know if any 16 TPI file will work, but I'll figure it out. Advice appreciated!
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Snap-On thread repair file, you may find one >>> on Ebay by part number. <<< 11 tpi through 24, useful tool.
5/8"x16 tpi UNF sounds odd, though. Standard is 18 tpi.
5/8"x16 tpi UNF sounds odd, though. Standard is 18 tpi.
Hello again. I started the wheel bearing project a few days ago. The axle nut was threadbare and would no longer accept torque without slipping, and the axle itself was in bad shape and wouldn't accept a fresh nut (new new from a major vendor). I ran a thread chaser down it and am I'm in good shape now.
I did a bunch of research and measurements and have confirmed the following, which I'm very confident of (and even verified with another person in my MG club who has had the same issue). The axle is an unusual 11/16" - 16 thread. That matches what the nut vendor said, too.
If anyone ever needs help fixing their axle thread, reach out to me and I can share photos and advice. Posting this here for posterity.
Now on the setting the shims and finishing the job!
I did a bunch of research and measurements and have confirmed the following, which I'm very confident of (and even verified with another person in my MG club who has had the same issue). The axle is an unusual 11/16" - 16 thread. That matches what the nut vendor said, too.
If anyone ever needs help fixing their axle thread, reach out to me and I can share photos and advice. Posting this here for posterity.
Now on the setting the shims and finishing the job!
YakkoWarner
Jedi Warrior
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I would be very interested in how this process is done, because my sum total of information on the subject is summed up as "don't do them like normal American style bearings or you'll eventually have broken spindles"....
Sure. I just sent you a private message about getting access to my personal notes as a PDF.
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