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Front Wheel Assembly Question [bearings]

77MidgetMkIV

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Ok, so when I removed the old bearings, which actually came out in pieces, I was not too concerned with their orientation, for a couple reasons:first, I thought I was going to convert to tapered bearings, and second, I was an idiot and didn't pay attention. Anyway, I've decided to go with original ball bearings. I just received my delivery from the MossMan last night. Looking at the bearing kits, it seems that they are not symmetrical, aka, the side of each bearing looks different hinting that there might be a specific way that each have to be seated in the hub. I did notice that one side of each (outer and inner) have "Thrust" labeled on them. Is this an indication of the direction that the bearings need to be seated in? I have only worked with tapered bearings before, and they are hard to screw up, but these ones are a little tricky, and I want to make sure that I do it right.

Any help?
 
OP
77MidgetMkIV

77MidgetMkIV

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I believe I have answered my own question. I thought that, since it was shipped sitting in it's race, it was a single unit, but after doing some reading, it seems that it acts just like a tapered bearing set in that you seat the race first, then the bearing, aka, it is not a single sealed unit.

I will know for sure when I get home tonight.
 

sparkydave

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Hi Mark, I'm pretty sure the bearings don't come apart; the bearings are supposed to be pressed into the hub, and these just get slid onto the stub axle. I don't have my workshop manual handy right now, but it did say which way the "thrust" side was supposed to go. I can take a look and see which way they were supposed to go. I just did the front suspension on mine and the bearings came with the hub as a single unit.
-Dave
 
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77MidgetMkIV

77MidgetMkIV

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interesting. I didn't get a chance to tear into them last night or this morning other than to look at them really quick. I will have a better idea when I get home since I have more reference material there than here (work), but figured if I could save a little time, so much the better, since if I make a concerted effort tonight, the car will be off it's jackstands for the first time since February;I am on vacation starting next wed and I want to have it done by then in order to drive the heck out of it for 2 weeks.
 

John Kuzman

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Mark,
I saved this from an old post. Hope it helps.

The stock wheel bearings for these are angular thrust bearings, so they can take both radial and sideways loads.

If you look at the bearing races, you should notice that the face of the outer race extends further toward the center on one side. Conversely, the face of the inner race should extend toward the edge on one side. Those extended faces are what carry the thrust.

So, the large face of both inner races should ride against that tubular collar thing that slips over the spindle. The large faces of the outer races should face out towards the spindle plate and the spindle washer.

Here's an illo that should help ---

https://www.skf.com/images/angular-t.jpg
 
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77MidgetMkIV

77MidgetMkIV

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Thx John- I think that might be exactly the information that I was looking for!

Just got the OK from the boss to skip out a little early today, so it looks like I am getting a head start!

First to the shop to get grease and oil.....
 

Biff

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If you look in your M##s catalog they have a diagram showing how the bearings go in/on. They are one piece not races and bearings.
 
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77MidgetMkIV

77MidgetMkIV

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Well, after going home and re-reading my shop manual, it stated clearly that thrust goes to the spacer, like stated above. Not sure how I missed it the first time. I did learn a lot about bearings yesterday, though, so all was not lost. In a marathon session last night I re-honed the hub bearing seats (some burrs from PO), packed and seated the bearings, assembled the hub/discs, installed newly painted dust covers and wheel assemblies, re-installed calipers with new pads, clips, shims and pins, rebuilt and installed the PDWA, bled out the system, and installed the LH coil spring. I also drained the diff, and ran into another PO Christmas present: while the drain plug came out fine, the filler plug looks like a chisel was taken to it, and then a bear gnawed on it. Ugh. Tried an angled screwdriver, hammer hits to unfreeze, torch to unfreeze, and now it is basting in a WD-40/Spray Lube cocktail. Ordered new plugs last night from Moss at 11:45Pm when I finished up for the night. Worst case I drill/punch through the old cap, and then replace with new. That happens tonight with the FR coil spring, and then it is off stands for the 1st time since Feb!!!!

I have posted a number of times during this job (a couple months..) and I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. Another pair of eyes, if even virtual, are always good when staring at a problem. This board has been great. With luck, I'll be /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif early next week just in time for vacation! Then it is on to the suspension /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif in the fall/winter
 
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