Rustoleum......yes, once again......

[zimmy]

ive decided to go with the Allis Chalmers Orange for farm use......it seems like the closest match to my car, and it should be very tough to chip etc.
its for tractors and lawn mowers(it also says trucks) ........
i hope its a little better than the standard paint...
how is yours doing Baz?
i still need that front valance to really get rolling(no pun intended)
any comments or suggestions welcome as always ......zimmmmy

rustoleum

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Not that I'm trying to deter you, but I saw a John Deere Green Honda Accord the other day and it had brush marks in it. I guess he hadn't found time to wet sand it yet. I wouldn't have given it a second look if it weren't for the recent $56 paint job threads here on the BCF.

 

[zimmy]

brush marks will not be tolerated!
ill take it off and paint it again
if it doesnt work.....
i really dont forsee any problems,
and i AM pretty good with paint......z

 

[jlaird]

Take pics.

 

[Shealey]

Why not just have it done correctly? I don't get it?

 

[Baz]

Mine's looking 'OK' Zim, but I need to wetsand yet again with a higher grit, then wetsand lower grit and buff and polish; the smoothness is there, just gotta be a bit more diligent in getting the shine out.

 

[bugimike]

Why not just have it done correctly? I don't get it?

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif The amount of extra time spent wet-sanding brush-marks out has got to be excessive! The cost of paint may be cheaper, but how much is the extra time spent worth?
It will be tough to convince me that a brushed paint-job is going to outshine a sprayed one!

 

[Morris]

A) It won't be brushed, it will be rolled with a high density foam roller purpose built for creating a smooth finish.

B) Is building a booth, building a ventilation system, completely removing your old paint, spraying primer, sanding, spraying several coats of base, sanding between each coat, sanding out dust and runs, and spraying clear coat, sanding the whole clear coat off because you messed it up, and spraying the clear coat again really less work?

C) If you have the equipment or skills to do a pro style paint job, or if you have the money for a pro paint job (there is a big difference between $56 and $2000) then don't waste your time with the cheapo paint job.

The cheapo paint job is for us guys with daily beaters that merely want them to look not ugly.

 

[zimmy]

thats it Morris!
plus, rolling it on is MUCH more
casual.......
i COULD spray it myself, but then
ill need hundreds of dollars just
to get started, AND ill be rushed
the whole time im painting, and
overspray is a pain.....

id love to have a "new cadillac"
type paint job, but i need a windshield
worse, and if u spend more on the paint than
the car is worth, what have u gained? ...zimmmy

 

[leecreek]

I hope it is understood that alot of automotive finishes are not compatable with Rustoleum stop rust paints.

 

[paulsherman]

The only thing I know is that Bugeyes are a challenge. If we had all of the money in the world we would just buy a very nice one. Then what would we do wirh our time? We all know we work cheap, and a cheap Rustoleum type paint job is cheap.

I STILL NEED AN IRIS BLUE PAINT CHIP

I am doing my rear end (inside the tube) and my bottom (underside).

 

[Morris]

That's good to know, Lee. The guy who came up with this idea claims that you can paint right over it.

But if you were going to put on a pro auto finish, wouldn't you go down to bare metal anyway?

 

[bugimike]

Here is my BE with freshly painted Centauri Acrlylic Enamel - Jeep Cherokee Red, done with a generic, cheap spray gun and an air-brush compressor (in the one-bay garage it was done in, sans plastic "drapery" - ladders and stuff removed!!). Cost of paints, thinner, sand-papers, etc. the works...under $100-16 years ago! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

 

[leecreek]

Going back to bare metal would depend on the condition of the prep work already done I would think. The best local body shop just laughed and walked away when I asked about paint for the '66 Jeep I rebuilt. I painted it with Rustoleum 'Hard Hat' rattle cans and looked fine. For about 3 years...Just my 2 c....

 

[Morris]

That looks great, Mike.

Come do my car!

 

[jlaird]

You guys do know that what you are doing with Rustoleum can be done with any good paint?

 

[bugimike]

Once I get my car done again, I may consider it, but both it and I are now 16 years older!!!!

PS: this is what I started with...
and how it looks today! (the back is in primer!) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

 

[Jack_Long]

I have heard great things about the new 3M Trizact 3000 grit paper designed for use dry on a DA sander - proponents say it is as good or better than wet sanding, and takes a fraction of the time.

I wonder how a Rustoleum roll-on job, left to dry hard, would look after a Trizact sanding and good buffing? I may try it on a junk panel just to see how it comes out...

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Jack, my father is going to be trying that on his latest project. But on a small car like a midget most of the time is spent on areas that can not be done with a DA.

And I already have a small fortune invested in sanding blocks.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

 

[BWillis]

Paul,

Please check your PM's I've asked for your address a few times.

Ben