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TR4/4A "Mad Marx" rear main seal for TR2-4A once again available

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TR3driver

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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We had a thread some months ago about these being out of stock. I just heard from Joe A. (the only authorized US importer) that he has gotten a new shipment of them, so they are once again in stock.
You can order either direct from Joe or through TRF.
https://the-vintage-racer.com/
https://www.the-roadster-factory.com

Unfortunately the price has gone up, but the kit now includes a whole new scroll seal rather than having your old scroll seal machined. Joe's price is $180 including the alignment mandrel (highly recommended as it has the correct dimensions while some others are wrong). And this is the kit that does NOT require machining the scroll area off of the crank! Some light polishing is recommended, but the scroll is still used (and you can switch back to an original type seal if you want to).

Race tracks take a VERY dim view of cars that "mark their spot" and will frequently ban you from the track until the leak is fixed. Chris Marx, who races a TR4 in Germany, designed this seal to be an improvement over the other aftermarket seal (the one that does require machining the scroll off of the crank). Although I have not (yet) had a chance to try mine, everyone that has seems to be very satisfied with the results.

If you want one, get your order in now. Joe got a "large quantity" but I have a feeling they may sell out again.

Disclosure : I do have some financial interest in TRF (Charles owes me money :smile: ) but none in A.R.E. I just like to help support those who are working hard to help the rest of us, and Joe certainly qualifies for that.
 
OK, but it's hard to get too excited about pulling the engine, tearing it all apart, pulling the crank, getting distracted on pistons and rings, and then bearings, and maybe sleeves, and, of course, crank grinding, all just to fix the seal. Somehow a real big job will just get bigger, right?

I've been trying to get there for a year. You might recall that I've never been able to pinpoint a very annoying, few tablespoons a week, leak I have. I'd swear it's coming out of the pan but I just can't nail it down. The plug leaks, the bolt heads have oil drops, the back of the pan is oily, the lip on the transmission cover plate hold oil--all frustrating.

The prior owner said it was the RMS and I've been in denial

Maybe spending some money will get me excited. Then I can buy an engine puller too. What fun. We only get older.
 
My symptoms and thoughts sound like yours, plus front engine cover leak, just enough to show on my father-in-laws pristine driveway. What the heck,
sometimes I drip a little to, maybe neither of us should visit.
 
Thanks Randall good information. If I do not sell my 61 thisspring, I will probably give one a try; mine has low miles, but does leak some.I would leave the pistons and stuff alone.
 
KVH said:
OK, but it's hard to get too excited about pulling the engine, tearing it all apart, pulling the crank, getting distracted on pistons and rings, and then bearings, and maybe sleeves, and, of course, crank grinding, all just to fix the seal.
Click to expand...

Which is exactly why I haven't had a chance to try mine out. No way am I pulling the engine just to change that seal; but it will be nice to have the good seal on the shelf for when I do get around to rebuilding the engine. I find it incredibly frustrating to get in the middle of a project like that and find that the parts aren't available at the time.

I believe I've identified the road draft tube as my major oil leak at the moment. When I changed the oil the other day, I looked up at it from underneath and saw the trail where the side of the block had been washed clean by the leaking oil. I can also wiggle the tube a bit, even though it is anchored at one of the pan bolts (as it should be).
 
Can it be done by dropping the trans ...or pulling it (trans).
Or can't it be done with the motor in?
 
The crank has to come out of the block, so it's pretty much an engine-out job.

Perhaps not totally impossible to remove the crank with the engine still in the engine compartment, but you're still going to have to take the front apron etc off to get at the fan and timing cover. By then, I think it makes more sense to go ahead and lift the engine out.

Back before I owned an engine hoist, I used to pull engines using a "come-a-long" aka cable puller. About $8 back in 1970, still only about $15 @ HF
https://www.harborfreight.com/1200-lb-capacity-cable-puller-30131.html
I ignored the "Not for lifting" caution though, so make your own decision on that.

One comment, though, if you hook the puller to a joist in the garage, be sure to install some additional braces on each side of the car. Probably safer to just knock together an A-frame from some lumber. When I stashed the old 3A engine in the shed a few months back, I built an A-frame inside the shed that worked out well. 4x4 for the top bar, some 2x4 for the legs and some scrap 1/2" plywood for the braces. Easier than hauling the engine hoist back there in pieces.
 
Actually, I put one of Joe's kits in my TR4A last summer with the engine in the car. I did not pull the crank out either. The rear main and the aluminum seal will spin around the crank and come out. The hardest part is getting the rubber seal in.

Dan B.
 
Really, Nice to hear I kinda figured the old one would comeoff, but I did not know how the new one went on. Could you explain in moredetail? Or does the kit come with instructions on how to? Or perhaps he has aweb site.
 
Maybe I can help:
https://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf

In this manual you can see how to rework the stock seal and installing of the additionally seal.
With the new made replacement housing the rework is not needed anymore.

Cheers
Chris
 
Thanks, Chris!
 
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