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Runs a Bit - Then Quits

HealeyRick

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Trying to get the bugeye back on the street after sitting for a couple of years. Here's the latest. Starts up, runs weakly for about 30 seconds then stops. Won't restart. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, it will start and do the same thing. Fuel is fresh, Facet fuel pump. Seems to be getting fuel. Suggestions?
 
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markberry

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Trying to get the bugeye back on the street after sitting for a couple of years. Here's the latest. Starts up, runs weakly for about 30 seconds then stops. Won't restart. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, it will start and do the same thing. Fuel is fresh, fawcett fuel pump. Seems to be getting fuel. Suggestions?

How's the ignition system working? do you have a nice strong blue spark at the plug wires?
 

Boink

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Everything OK with the carb. float-bowls?
 

SaxMan

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Did you check the choke?
 

JPSmit

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I predict a fuel line obstruction - 30 seconds is about enough to empty the float and maybe the fuel line - ten minutes enough to trickle full again. Fuel filters - pickup at the tank - if neither of those then fuel pump. Can you run it from a gas can to check?
 

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I predict a fuel line obstruction - 30 seconds is about enough to empty the float and maybe the fuel line - ten minutes enough to trickle full again. Fuel filters - pickup at the tank - if neither of those then fuel pump. Can you run it from a gas can to check?

After checking the "obvious" I, too, would remove the fuel line to the carbs and let it run (to see how that flow is going).
 

Gerard

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Hi Rick,

I would check the floats after it dies and won't restart. Your float needles might have gotten sticky from the old fuel after sitting so long. Also, the little compartment at the bottom of the float bowl may have accumulated too much sediment. It might be a good time to get in there with some Q-tips and clean them out.
 
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Paul McGuffin

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My guess is the fuel line also. I once had a small piece of the rubber fuel line break INSIDE the line. You couldn’t see it. It was acting exactly like a check valve. Once I got the line off, you could suck through it backwards, but if you tried to blow through it, in the direction of fuel flow, it would close.
 

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Hi Rick,

I would check the floats after it dies and won't restart. Your float needles might have gotten sticky from the old rule after sitting so long. Also, the little compartment at the bottom of the float bowl may have accumulated too much sediment. It might be a good time to get in there with some Q-tips and clean them out.

This was my first guess, but I thought that having BOTH bowls (and needles) misbehave might be less likely? Always good to clean them out.
 

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Can't fathom it being electrical (but what do I know). Remember that those newer Grosse Jets (in floats) can get sticky; I switched mine to Viton-tipped ones.
 

nomad

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My guess is the fuel line also. I once had a small piece of the rubber fuel line break INSIDE the line. You couldn’t see it. It was acting exactly like a check valve. Once I got the line off, you could suck through it backwards, but if you tried to blow through it, in the direction of fuel flow, it would close.

A friend had that happen on an airplane he had restored. A bit more critical!!

Landed on a gravel road and figured it out.

Kurt.
 
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Paul McGuffin

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Take off any rubber lines and make sure you can blow through them in both directions.
 

Pythias

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90% of Fuel delivery problems are electrical and 90% of electrical problems are fuel delivery ones. ?
 
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HealeyRick

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This may turn out to be embarrassing. Yesterday, I went through the entire fuel system. Blew out the lines from tank to carb. No obstructions with good flow from the pump. Removed the floats, no leaks. Cleaned the float valves, nothing sticking. Cleaned the bottom of the float bowls, just a little dirt, nothing major. Blew out the jet tubes, no obstructions, Removed the dashpots and pistons, cleaned them. Working fine. Got everything back together, started right up and ran super for 30 seconds ... died. This whole thing started when I was flushing my cooling system and had removed the thermostat and replaced the housing without a new gasket. I was loosing some water, but nothing major. When I looked a little closer, the coolant was spraying out on the spark plug side. I stuffed a shop rag over the thermostat housing to stop the spray and the car continued to idle. As it warmed up it sounded a little healthier. So here's my latest guess. It was taking about 30 seconds of coolant spray to ground out the #1 plug and kill the motor. After it sat for a bit, the water dried up and everything was fine until the water sprayed out again and killed it. After plugging the leak and heating up the motor, all the water dried out and it started to run better. Won't know for sure if this was it until Sunday or Monday when I've finished flushing the cooling system with a nice citrus flush https://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_citrus_flush.htm, button everything back together with new thermostat and gasket and see if it's been fixed. Anyway, I know I have a nice clean fuel system and cooling system.
 
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Boink

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Novel... but good for you! So it WAS kind of electrical. :wink-new: Glad it's resolved.
 
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