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Lilly test runs

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another day and another run. three things from today:

1) after a drive, while the engine was hot, i pulled the valve cover to run a check on the valves. i had set them cold when i put the engine together at .015. with the engine hot... i got the same .015. i expected they would have closed up a couple of thou but not at all. should i go ahead and set to .012 cold? seems i have read that others have seen no difference hot or cold.

2) also read to re-torque the head. but i have read to do it at different times. one place said after a few heat cycles and another place said between 500 and a thousand miles. i would rather wait and do it in the fall since the rocker assembly has to come back off. but if i am going to adjust the valves now anyway, and if it should be done after a few heat cycles... well i may as well do it now. thoughts?

3) the engine idles down to 500-600 RPM with no issue. but sometimes on shut off i get dieseling. cause? i just checked the timing yesterday was set to 15*BTDC. what else should i look at? valves being at .015 possible cause?

Thanks
 
and while i am asking questions anyway...
went to drain some coolant so i can put the sleeve in. my old drain **** leaked. so i bought a new one from Moss. it leaked until i put in the plug. of course that means to drain the radiator, you have to drain it all and it splatters every where. has someone found another alternative to the old drain ****. Something maybe i can get at autozone or somewhere? thanks.
 
Hey Drone Dog, a loose valve setting relative to a tight one is better. Consider a 0.015 clearance for now. Diesling run-on is not uncommon after a spirited drive. i set my BJ-7 idle speed at around 650 - 700 RPM and it will sometimes diesel. Make sure the manifold drain tubes are open and free of debris. They're design to vent surplus fuel which could cause the run-on. If all else fails, engage clutch while turning off engine - that'll stop it! GONZO
 
What's a couple thousandths among friends, we're not dealing with a Rolex here. Years ago before I started doing my own wrenching I had a "PRO" set the valves in my 3000. He had two blades of his feeler gauge stick together and set the valves at .029 ! No big deal but it was kind of noisy for a couple weeks until we both had time to make it right.
 
thanks for the advice. i will leave the valve clearance alone at least until the fall and see how things are. plan to wait until then also to retorque the head, shocks, etc and change the oils again.

i have a tri-carb motor, not sure i have manifold drain tubes.

new thermostat sleeve will be here tomorrow so i hope to get that in and then see how the engine temp goes. Also have a coolant bottle coming and a bracket so i will play with that.

FYI, i did get a radiator drain tap from NAPA i believe will work fine and allow me to drain coolant without a mess.
 
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