TR2/3/3A Removing front spring pans?

[John_Progess]

I have followed the manuals and have the shock removed, have two pins in the center bolt holes but the spring pan is hitting the frame when I try to let the spring down. I have a 16" long 3/4" dia. bolt where the shock was mounted compressing the spring. Do the bottom arms have to be level or slightly up to let the spring pan down and clear the frame? One problem is that the engine is not in the frame, it is a bare chassis so I don't have the engine weight helping me but I cannot seem to get the spring pan to clear the frame. Any suggestions would be helpful and have a good day!

 

[TR3driver]

Yup, you'll need to raise the arms until the studs clear the pan, then pull the pan slightly away from the frame. Sounds like you are already past the point where you need the weight of the engine to help (removing the bump stop).

 

[CJD]

Without the engine you do not have enough weight to level the arms. Unless you can level the lower arms, the spring will not come out. I did the same my first time around.

No sweat, though. You can use an old style spring compressor, but you have to modify it a bit. The compressor is a huge screw that has 2 blocks with hooks. One block is threaded, and the other rests on the head of the screw. I unscrewed the threaded block and removed the other block. Then you can run the screw down from the upper shock mount hole and inside the spring from the top. Place the threaded block inside the spring through the lower shock mount hole and hook it to the lowest coils you can...then thread in the big screw. Now you can wrench the screw and compress the spring. Once comressed, you can take apart the suspension and finally uncompress and remove the spring.

My second time around I tore down the suspension before removing the engine...which is the preferred way.

 

[TR3driver]

I'm not understanding your point, John. Once the factory type spring compressor is installed, you can use it to pull the spring pan (and arms) as high as necessary to undo the nuts & bolts. (Only the inner nuts are a problem anyway.) Once the spring pan is disconnected from the arms, there is no longer any force on the arms at all and you can lower the pan (by loosening the compressor).



The only time you might need the weight of the engine is at the initial step, when you need to compress the suspension enough to remove the bump stop bracket.

 

[CJD]

I am referrring to the common generic style spring compressor, that is available from any auto parts store for rent or sale. The one you show would be wonderful to use, but I have not seen it at an everyday parts supplier. The common generic tool is not long enough to extend through the whole assembly like in your pic. Also, with no weight on the car, doesn't the angle of the pan and curve of the spring make inserting the tool difficult?

 

[TR3driver]

Ah, I see. That is a home-made replica of the factory tool; really just a length of threaded rod and a big flat washer.

(The flat washer came out of my junk box, I think in a previous life it might have been a generator pulley half for a VW bug but I have no idea how it got in my junk box.)

But you can buy professional replicas at any LBC supplier (Moss 386-895, TRF RFT102).

Since it's smaller than the shock and goes in the same place, if there is room to get the shock out, there is room to insert the tool.

Lotta years ago I had a bad experience using one of those generic "through the center" spring compressors. No one got hurt, fortunately, but it could easily have been much worse. I had just put my hand into the spring to pick it up, when the compressor slipped and launched itself across the yard and out into the street. I only got my knuckles rapped, but I could have easily lost a finger or worse. I won't use one again. The Churchill style tool is much, much safer IMO, especially since the spring is uncompressed before you even remove it from the car.

 

[CJD]

It looks a lot less complicated...so much less to go wrong! I'll have to make or get one.