TR2/3/3A Pinion tail bearing replacing

[sp53]

Pinion tail bearing replacing. I was looking at the pinion tail before I put the seal back in and noticed there were no shims next to the bearing. This diff has been worked on before, the tab washers have been opened and closed. So, I am think someone removed the shims and just torqued the nut down and did not set that little bit of drag. I doubt this diff did not have any shims, but I guess that is possible.

My thoughts are to pull the tail bearing and have a look. Years ago I replaced one with a friend. We were able to get the bearing out, and I believe even the race, but this bearing is in tight and that was many years ago. Should I take a hook tool and try to work it out? I could call it good and purchase some shims and try to test for the drag. I guess if the shims are gone and the nut is torqued to 80-lb there should a lot of drag.

Looking at the bearing would make me feel better. I would know something about the condition, maybe. There is the other bearing on the other end, and I do not plan to remove the pumpkin, so that bearing is staying in place for know. I would like to close this diff up with some confidence. Also, I do not want to break or force something. any ideas anyone

steve

 

[bobhustead]

I would not try to reset a worn pinion gear. The wear in on the ring and pinion is a done deal and making them contact each other in a new way is asking for noise and destruction.
Bob

 

[CJD]

If you can't pull the whole pinion, I would not worry about removing the tail bearing. The spacer under that bearing is what sets the preload, and I am not sure that the spacer can be serviced from the small bearing opening. Replace the seal and torque it back down to your mark when you first undid the nut. If you did not mark the original location, then just retorque to factory specs. In other words...unless you go all in, don't worry about it!

Then do a tooth alignment check between the ring and pinion gears by using colored grease on the teeth. Try to load the gears as you turn them to check the mesh pattern on the teeth.

 

[CJD]

Oh...It goes without saying, if your tooth pattern is good, then run it. If the pattern is off, then you will have to pull the pumpkin and the pinion gear to adjust the contact pattern. If you have serious concerns about the diff having been "messed with", to the point you think the gears are off to begin with...then I would recommend NOT installing the new seal until you have checked the mesh pattern. If you have to adjust, it takes several tries of pulling the pinion/ adjusting shims/ and reinstalling it. The seal will get damaged, so save it until you are sure the contact pattern is good.

 

[bobhustead]

I am apparently not familiar with the Brit nomenclature of the bearings. Please ignore.
Bob

 

[sp53]

Thanks you guys I appreciate it. I did mark the nut with a very close photo. I just double check myself and I see that I was wrong and thought for some reason the shims were in front of the bearing and now I see they are behind it. That makes more sense for a shim to be behind to change the amount of force when the nut is tighten down.

I kind of know what you mean when you say the contact pattern on how the gears mess. I have no way of knowing how many miles the last gears mess has on it. It does look like the wear is even on the ring and pinion by a slight shiny place on the gear; they appear to be meeting on a happy plane.

At this point, it looks like----- put it together and drive it and see about the noise and leaks. I probably should do the mesh test with the colored grease and see if the gear mess is way out.

Steve

 

[bobhustead]

If it is just what I would call the top bearing, you should be able to replace it (and the cup, of course) without affecting the contact of the R&P. But if it ain't making any noise ...
Bob

 

[CJD]

I am apparently not familiar with the Brit nomenclature of the bearings. Please ignore.
Bob

We're not really using correct nomenclature, so don't feel bad!?! Steve and I have been communicating so long together I think I just understand what he's talking about...most of the time, anyway.

 

[Graham H]

If the flange nut was tight when you undid it it would suggest it had been setup right before but if it was a long time ago there could be some bearing wear and there may not be any preload, did you check it before you took it off? If in doubt, as suggested put it back together without the oil seal because you may need to pull the bearing to take out some shims. I did use a spring scale to check the preload according to the manual but I do recall that if you hold the yoke with two hands you should be able to break it free and then it will rotate smoothly. Good luck

Graham

 

[mctriumph]

As CJ said, if the teeth are meshing properly, run it and thank the the lord.
Fill it with 70/90 synthetic and some Lucas stabilizer(JMHO).
Mad dog

 

[sp53]

I need to read up more on how to show the meshing of the RP better. I took some pictures and perhaps if they are magnified the contact point will be clear. The point seems to me to be in the center and the contact seems slight.

The other pictures are the bearing sitting right outside the spot the bearing fits. The shelf in the flange for the bearing is about a ¼ inch deep with a grove around it to hold the grease pushed inside by a grease gun. I took a hand held grease gun and pumped through the zerk 3 pumps of grease with the bearing out to see how much grease that would be and then push that grease into the grove by hand. The books states 5 pumps of grease in that zerk when doing a lube job, and 3 pumps looks like a good start with room for a few more. I wanted to make sure some lubricant was in the housing and I guess with the diff topped off, the gear oil will move down the axle and lubricate everything once the diff gets moving

My concern with the bearing is should I force the bearing into the ¼ shelf by tighten the other side of the flange, or tap the bearing in with a mallet so I know the bearing is fully seated in the case.

I have heard I should put a lot of goop on the surfaces to seal back the gear oil. I am thinking put goop on both flagged surfaces and the brake back plate where they meet and then not get too much goop in the flange that the goop does not plug the zerk. I am probably over thinking this, but more ideas are always helpful

 

[CJD]

I think your contact looks ballpark for a lightly loaded diff. I would go with it. Under heavy load it will move towards the outer edge and down the large part of the ring gear, which will put it right where you want it.

Definitely use sealant between the diff flange, brake backplate, and bearing retainer. Just around the bearing opening will do.

If you over-grease the outer bearings, the grease just moves into the center section of the diff. It can't hurt anything. Remember that, while you are looking at it, it is cold and globular. When it heats up, the grease turns into a liquid, about like molasses, so it will spread throughout the bearing.

Looking good!

 

[Graham H]

Also use gasket cement on the all the bolt threads that screw into oil and the spline on the pinion flange and nut washer.

Graham