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pacesetter header?

Hayfever

Jedi Trainee
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I have no experience with their Triumph headers personally, but I used to work customer service for a jeep parts supplier and out of a shipment of say 20 Jeep headers we would have to ship back probably 18-19 due to warped flanges or other problems. Googling brings up pages such as this one that suggest that these headers suffer from these same problems.
 
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DougF

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I would avoid. I had one years ago. It was worth more in scrap value than it was to the performance of the car.
I recently looked at Kirk Racing's header, which I am also staying away from because of fit issues. I am buying the Triumphtune header this summer. They will bolt right up with no problems.
 

bobh

Jedi Warrior
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Doug,
What are the fit problems with the Kirk header? I was planning to buy their header and have it coated. They have a very good reputation.
 
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Guest

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By TriumphTune - you mean the 2 piece Moss ones? I have them. Fit was pretty good - they bolted right up w/o problems.
 
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DougF

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I will be buying from Scott Harper of Team Triumph in Warren OH. I know he is a Moss distributor, but can't say for certain where the header is coming from. Yes, they are a two piece set up.
 

swift6

Yoda
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I'm not much of a fan of the Moss TriumphTune headers. TRf has versions like mine here:
https://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/48.php

Here are mine... They had zero fitment or clearance issues.
0000_026.jpg


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G

Guest

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Those are probably Falcon stainless steel headers if they came from TRF. I have those on my engine, work well. However, had to take them down and have the surface faced to guarantee a flatter surface. Was getting some exhaust gas blow-by. After getting them surfaced, there is no more leakage problem. You WILL have a problem getting some of the nuts to fit because of the curvature of some of the pipes. Quite a challenge but doable. I resorted to using all-metal locking nuts with flat washers only (these nuts have a tapered side) to clear the pipes in two places.


Bill
 

swift6

Yoda
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Mine are not Falcon's actually. TRF's are though I believe. They came from a now closed (for more than a decade now) exhaust shop in California. I bought them off a chap at Dave Bean Engineering (Lotus Specialist)while buying parts for my Cortina. He had bought them for his TVR 2500M but needed to modify them to get them to fit so he held off. I think he actually sold off his 2500M as well. Anyway, the story with these is that they supposedly came from the same exhaust shop that built Kastners exhaust systems. There were a couple of things that I found to casually support the claim.

What I know for sure is that the flanges were perfectly flat, no adjustments were needed at all. No leaks or anything anywhere. I also had no problems with any nuts. Yes they do require some interesting articulation but it seriously wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be considering problems others have had. If the Falcon sytems does have some slight issues I can't speak to that as these are not Falcon's. At least I choose to believe they are not. If they are then I must have been extremely lucky with my fittment. Especially since I didn't pay all that much for them.

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duckspuddle

Member
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Shawn's headers are very similar to the Falcon unit, but there are a number of subtle differences (I bought mine from Moss Europe...always in stock!), The collector on the aft 3 pipes is different than the falcon, as is the angle of the #1 pipe. My experience with the falcon header has been great, although if I ever have trouble with the starter, I'll have to take the header off to access it. I would strongly suggest anyone using this header to explore the use of an aftermarket high torque starter. They are more compact
 

trfourtune

Jedi Knight
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headers!
here we go again. first off, almost all production headers are poor.poor design,poor materials,poor performance gains. headers need to be matched to YOUR engine.ie cam,intake,ports,exhaust, compression etc. 99% of headers out there are not equal length or flow.you may gain SOME performance but not as much as with a correct performance header.tony-lindsey-dean of "kingstonmotorsportscars.com" makes some that work for tr6's.he's in england.
if your going to buy headers, buy the best ones for YOUR car that you can.i'm building my own for my tr4.
the only stainless that should be used for headers is 321 stainless.NOT 304!!! i have heard many reports that these crack. (read caroll smiths books-engineer to win-and his others for that matter)you are better off using mild steel and have it ceramic coated inside and out (underhood temps will be less).
people hear "stainless" and think it's better. not true unless it is the RIGHT stainless.
performance gains are in the design and construction(not the material). correct primary lengths and diameter,equal length primaries within 1/2" (measured on the centerline of the tubes), correctly designed collector with both the length and the converging angle and outlet, correct size collector pipe after the converging cone, correct size exhaust and muffler. headers for mufflers are not the same as headers without mufflers. high altitude locations make a difference (your engine takes in less volume of air).
with different lengths primaries, each cylinder has a different tune and this effects the intakes and carb or efi settings required for each cylinder.race headers are not good for the street. you want the correct header. big diameter primary pipes on a street tuned car will probably lose power rather than gain power, so what looks sexy doesn't necessarily work. make the right choice and you will be happy. make the wrong choice because it was cheaper and you live with the consequences.
suggest you go to "headersbyed" web site and read all he has to say and "stahl headers". look at race cars and note the design is equal length.most are custom made.
now look at headers with a more discerning eye.
"headersbyed" did the sizing for me from my design request. i think it will be the best $35 bucks i spent on my car.my headers are designed equal within 1/16" (by me-i am an industrial engineering designer).
rob
 
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