Opening the front of the heater box Q.

[KLUTZ]

I wanted to open the front of the heater box to get a look inside, while I had the carbs and the manifold off, and I removed the 5 or 6 clips that were holding in on. The cover would still not come off. Is there some screws at the botom holding it on, that I didn't notice or some other reason it wouldn't come off?

Thanks

paul

 

[DrEntropy]

The front cover extends down into the opening in the body. Only good way to pull it apart is after the box is removed from the car. There is a mounting screw under the blower motor side that is a real PITA to get out, too. You'll be swearing your brains out if you decide to do this. Defroster faceplate and tubes must come out of the interior and the control cable released/removed from the box as well. Up for a challenge?!?

 

[KLUTZ]

[ QUOTE ]
The front cover extends down into the opening in the body. Only good way to pull it apart is after the box is removed from the car. There is a mounting screw under the blower motor side that is a real PITA to get out, too. You'll be swearing your brains out if you decide to do this. Defroster faceplate and tubes must come out of the interior and the control cable released/removed from the box as well. Up for a challenge?!?

[/ QUOTE ]



Up for a challenge? Not at this point Doc. Thanks... it stays the way it is.. bypassed.
If the Mrs. wants to paint it she can do it while it is in the engine bay. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

Paul

 

[DrEntropy]

Discretion IS the better part of valor! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[jlaird]

Bah, pull it all out and start over, much more satisfying.

 

[DrEntropy]

Truth to tell, I just finished this job last Friday. Had to strip the bloody thing down, epoxy primer'd and patched up. There was apparently a leaking hose at the valve side of the core and it rusted the front cover to the point where I had to fiberglass rebuild it to get a proper fitting/looking hole there again. Painted it with a Rustoleum spray-bomb... went to give it a second coat and that lifted the first. Ugly mess. Took a WEEK before I came to the decision to strip it AGAIN and shoot it with Krylon. Now it is placed in the car and looks fine, but what a fiasco. Not a casual job.

 

[tony barnhill]

DOC! I've got bunches of them on the shelf - unrusted!

 

[DrEntropy]

Heehee... I had that thought in mind as I was stripping it the SECOND time, Tony. But I was "invested" in this'n by then. Wasn't gonna let it beat me, y'see. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'm a stubborn ol' git.

 

[jsneddon]

[ QUOTE ]
But I was "invested" in this'n by then. Wasn't gonna let it beat me, y'see. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'm a stubborn ol' git.

[/ QUOTE ]

ya think ???? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[GB1]

Doc:

I have had the same lifting problems from the spray bombs and have gone to high temp paint instead, it has less of a tendency to do the funnies.

 

[Scott_Hower]

[ QUOTE ]
Doc:

I have had the same lifting problems from the spray bombs and have gone to high temp paint instead, it has less of a tendency to do the funnies.

[/ QUOTE ]

The thing with Rustoleum is that you need to recoat it within an hour or wait about 2 days for it to dry/harden. I spray a light coat, wait a couple of minutes then hit it again with a slightly heavier one. Repeat a couple of times.

Make sure the substrate is CLEAN; I usually wipe down with thinner or acetone to get rid of any oils/silicone/dust.

 

[DrEntropy]

Yeah, I did a full de-rusting then patched where needed. Sprayed the whole affair with an epoxy primer and finish sanded. Applied the Rustoleum, waited about half an hour (Florida temps MAY have been the culprit here) and recoated it. Wrinkles galore. Waited two days, broke it down with #220 'til smooth and recoated ~again~ with the same paint... MORE wrinkles. Went another day and stripped off the Rustoleum, wiped it clean, prepped it and shot it with KRYLON. Looks bespoke now.

Anybody want two cans of gloss black Rustoleum? One has some amount missing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[jlaird]

Krylon with the primer undercoat for the win.

 

[DrEntropy]

Yup-yup. Seems I gotta re-learn that lesson once every few years... must be "OldTimers" settin' in.

A photo of the final install:

 

[kennypinkerton]

And with a shot close 'nuff to read "weber" on that nice carb /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[DrEntropy]

I'm incourageable. Just can't help mese'f.

...how good of you to notice!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

 

[Scott_Hower]

Looks like you used grommets on the inlet/outlet? Hopefully these are easier than the oil cooler lines /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

 

[DrEntropy]

Much easier! It finishes the box more neatly too, IMO.

 

[Scott_Hower]

[ QUOTE ]
Much easier! It finishes the box more neatly too, IMO.

[/ QUOTE ]

Sure does; I've got foam leakin' out of mine /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
The old seal was "wrapped" arounf the inlet/outlet, so I did the same when I reassembled it. Grommets are a much better idea.