TR2/3/3A TR3 Opening Glove Compartment with out a Key.

[Safari]

As I have stated in other posts I bought back a car I had sold in 1987. The PO lost the key to the Glove Compartment, any tips of picking the lock. My thought is to get a blank, marks-a-lot and a file and insert the key and start filing the areas which get the marks-a-lot rubbed off by the tumblers. I thought someone might have a faster method which will not destroy and part of the car, glove box, or me.

 

[TR3driver]

The tumblers always drag on the key, so I don't think your marks-a-lot approach is going to work. However, these locks are very easy to pick, so my suggestion would be to Google for one of the many lock picking videos and try it yourself. While the internal construction is somewhat different than a normal "pin and tumbler" lock, the picking procedure is the same.

Basically you need two tools, one to apply a bit of rotational force on the cylinder (but just a bit), and the other to reach into the lock and lift each pin in turn until that pin is unlocked. When they are all unlocked, the cylinder will turn. Here's one site with a video:
https://home.howstuffworks.com/home-improvement/household-safety/security/lock-picking2.htm

Or, have a locksmith come and do it for you. If you have a AAA card, I believe they will cover the locksmith at no charge.

The other route, of course, is to plan on replacing the cardboard compartment (which probably needs it anyway, they don't hold up very well over time) and just cut/tear a hole in the bottom of it. Then you can reach inside and undo the hex-head bolt that holds the lock lever to the cylinder; and push the door open.

PS, once it's open, it's not hard at all to disassemble the lock and cut your own key. For the glovebox lock, ISTR there is a roll pin that you have to tap out, then the cylinder pulls out. The tumblers are theoretically captive in the cylinder, so you just cut the key until it holds the tumblers level with the surface on both sides.

 

[Guest]

If you can read the numbers on the face of the lock,a new key can be ordered. I believe the guy to contact might be Pete Groh???? In MD.?? If some one has the correct name and contact,please post it.

 

[Safari]

Even Better.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

https://www.britishcarkeys.com/

Cheers

M. Pied Lourd

 

[Safari]

I love this site and of course the internet.

Thanks

 

[NickMorgan]

Isn't it the same key as the boot?

 

[Gordon_Dedrick]

I believe originally the ignition key worked the glove box too. Over the years most cars seem to have been converted so the boot key operated the glove box. Pete Groh at Bitish keys can re-key to any number or provide tumblers and original keys if you wish.
Gordon

 

[ekamm]

My key opens everything. And is very worn original. I really need to get a copy.

 

[Safari]

I will check.

Key only fits the ignition switch. I will have to pull the cores. The ignition switch is the important one anyway.

 

[HerronScott]

Not sure about my TR3 but on the TR4A, one key worked the ignition and door and the second key worked the glove box and trunk.

Scott

 

[Andrew Mace]

Not sure about my TR3 but on the TR4A, one key worked the ignition and door and the second key worked the glove box and trunk.

You beat me to it, Scott; I was just about to say that. That was true on one of my TR3As (the other only ever had one key for the ignition).

Oh, and it occurs to me that you might ask Pete if you could send him the lock (assuming you can remove it); perhaps he could try his key collection until he found the one that works, if there isn't a number on the lock. I think it should be an FP series Wilmot-Breeden lock?

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha,

If you remove the core to the glove box lock you can easily convert it so the ignition key will work the lock. Insert the ignition key in the lock and grind down any portion of the tumblers that protrude above the lock barrel. This can also be done to the door locks and boot lock to convert to one key works all.

 

[Safari]

Thanks, now that sounds like a great option.

 

[emmett1010]

I bought a lock and key for my glove compartment, only to find that I hated to have to use the key everytime I need to open it.
It seems like I'm forever opening it for sunglasses, gloves or the hood key, so I moved the locking lever down where it never locks, rendering the lock useless.

If I do need the lock, then I just move the lock lever back in position.
Emmett

 

[MDCanaday]

All of you missed the easy fix, since the old card board liner will need to be replaced in anycase, just rip out the bottom and take the cylinder off from the back side.I suggest having a new set of locks ready along with the new liner,then the job is back to gether in an hour or less.
MD(mad dog)

 

[HerronScott]

MD,

I think Randall beat you to that solution already in the second post.

Scott

 

[HerronScott]

I know this is an old thread, but thought I would pass on what I had found on my TR3A regarding the locks (so far). I didn't get any keys with the car so the links to Pete Groh's website were of interest to me.

I finally got out to the car and checked the codes on the ignition and trunk lock (since it's easy to pull) and found out they were the same. I was a little surprised since that didn't match the pattern on my TR4A's but may match Eric's car where the same key fits all locks. I pulled the glovebox lock but can't find a code on it.

I'm going to order a key for the ignition and trunk lock code and see if it fits the door locks and the glovebox lock. I'm pretty sure they are all the original locks.

Scott

 

[Don Elliott]

The glove box is held to the dashboard with two screws you will find below the lower flange. They will measure 8 and a half inches apart. Remove these two screws. Sometimes an owner will have added a top support which you can see if you slide head first into the deep end of the footwell with your feet and legs up on the RHS seat back. Then push the bottom edge of the glove box forward (there might still be one other screw securing the top inside the glove box just inside and to the RHS of the lock mechanism) and you can reach up into the glove box with a spanner via the gap between the dash and the bottom front edge of the glove box and remove the nut which measures about 5/8" across flats with the spanner.

Or you can cut a hole about 3" or 4" diameter through the cardoard bottom and reach up. Later, you can cut a patch to pop-rivet the hole closed again.

Thirdly, you can take a dremell and cut out the metal for the entire lock mechanism and buy a complete new one (comes with a new - correct - key) which is easy to install once you get the glove box door open.

BTW, when I bought my TR3A brand new in 1958, the two keys that came with the car were identical and all locks could be opened with this key. But after driving in salty slush from 1963 to 1972 here is the snow of winter, the barrels for the doors (in the door handles) won't turn any more. But with the top down all summer, who needs to lock the doors. They are unlocked all the time and have been like that since 1990 when I restored my TR3A.

 

[Don Elliott]

Scott - The key number for the glove box can be found on the body of the barrel of the lock beyond the tumblers once you get the whole mechanism off the glove box door and take it apart. At least it's there on an original lock made by the company who made them originally named Wilton Breedon. Keys made by them are marked with their name on one side (or "W-B") and often the word "UNION" is shown on the other side. W-B were bought a few years ago by another key/lock company which happens to be named something like "Western Bearing Hardware" and the keys made since then, look identical but instead of "W-B" shown on the key, you will find "W-B-H" for the name of the new company.