Interior door opening handle position

[peteatgr]

I'm in the process of the working on the inside mechansims of my doors (roll up window mechanisms, replacing the wing window rubber, door latch mechanisms) and replacing the interior door panels. My driver side door opening "paddle" handle is positioned such that when I push it forward to open the door the handle cuts into the upholstered interior door panel's raised outer piece. My passenger side "paddle" handle leans further rearward when in its home posdition and so it does not hit the interior door panel at all when pushed to open.

Can the home position or angle of the "paddle" be adjusted or changed? I see two phillips head screws securing the entire mechansim to the door structure and my drivers side mechanism appears to be mounted fully forward (but so is my passenger side device). Can I just loosen these screws and slide it back a bit or can the entire mechanism be tilted backward a bit somehow to adjust the "paddle" home angle?

Also, when I opened up my doors there were cover sheets of cloth like material that seem to be sealing the door interior and they had foam discs (?) positioned behind the door handle and window roll up handle. I've looked for replacement sheets in the standard parts catalogs but don't seem to see them. Are they available? What are they for?

 

[BJ8Healeys]

Pete, I have the same issue with my interior door handles. The driver's side handle is beginning to leave its mark on the raised part of the panel, just as you describe. The right side handle isn't operated as frequently, and so it isn't yet causing any problems. I believe the angular position of the door handle as it is now is correct, but I have seen some that were oriented differently. The handle has four holes in its "hub" that are exposed when you push in on the escutcheon (the spring-loaded circular plate behind the handle). A pin through two of the holes is what secures the square hole in the handle hub to the square stub that operates the door latch. You can remove the handle and rotate it to line up the other set of holes before replacing the pin and that will change the orientation of the handle.


The fabric material behind the door panel is a moisture barrier that provides some protection to the panel from moisture that gets into the door from rain, etc. The foam discs, I would guess, are sort of "shims" to back up the door panel where the handles are located. For many years, I used clear plastic sheet as a replacement for the original moisture barriers (which were missing on my car when I bought it), but eventually I found a better replacement closer to the original in a fabric store. They sold it by the yard. I taped both the plastic sheet and the fabric replacement to the doors with duct tape.

 

[peteatgr]

Thanks Steve. I've seen the other holes 90 degrees off of normal in the handle spline and I may have to use them. It just seems strange that passenger side lines up without a problem and the drivers side makes that cut/nick in the interior upholstered panel. None of the latch mechanism mounting holes appear to be worm, elongated or located differently on either side, but the passenger side paddle leans back further then the drivers side. I guess I'll have to play with it a bit and see if it can be changed through adjustment and if not I'll employ the 90 degree off set holes.

I was thinking of using Dynamat in the doors as a replacement for the material barrier also hoping it would deaden some door rattles but I think the plastic sheeting could be a better material. Then I can use that Dynamat to insulate the trans tunnel. Now I have to figure out how to repalce the wing window rubber before I start sealing the doors up again.

Haven't forgotten about the photos of my car for the registry or Tom M.'s car info. I've hjust reconnected with him and will be asking him to contact you.

 

[healeyblue]

I used the dynamat in the doors and it gives the doors a nice thud when closing, not a tin can ping sound like it used to. I put the dynamat on the inside of the outer panel though, not on the interior panel. I don't think it would be as effective on the interior panel.
JIM

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Healeybue, Did you cover the entire inside of the outer door panel with Dynamat or just install a smaller piece? I think I've seen photos of a 12" square (or so)piece installed on someones car.

 

[healeyblue]

I installed it in two pieces. One above the wood center piece (the car is a BN4 with the door pockets) and one below. I think it would have worked with a smaller piece but I had enough and I think it does give the door a more substantial feel.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Another alternative is the asphalt mat from BMW, and useful to me because I keep a sufficient stock on hand for replacement on their ///M Coupe models.

Yes, the sound of a Healey roadster door closing with it installed is more akin to a bank vault (or BMW, same difference).

The application of heat causes it to stick and provides the ability to shape it around contours. Not terribly expensive, but somewhat fragile if not handled properly__particularly in the cold. Although, it can be mended with a heat gun.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Must've reached a picture limit in that post, there was one (1) more:

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Thanks healeyblue and Randy. I looked at a restored roadster at BCS in Stockton many years ago and was really impressed when I closed the door. Smooth and quiet. David Nock told me the secret was good door alignment and sound deadener. It did sound like a high quality German built car..... Next time I have the door panels off, I will install some.

 

[John_Progess]

I had the same problem with the left door latch handle fouling the door panel. This week I had the panel off so I looked at the mechanism. It looked like the extension for the door latch handle was not perpendicular to the door but was canted slightly. The mechanism is attached to the door with a bracket that has three raised tabs with speed nuts. I ended up bending the three attachment tabs so the door latch handle extension was more perpendicular to the door. This increased the distance from the end of the door "paddle" handle to the door panel and gave me more clearance. The "paddle" handle no longer touches the interior panel. Hope this helps and have a good day!

 

[peteatgr]

Thanks John. I think that's what I needed to know. The canted angle of the extension could well be the result of greater use on the drivers side. No one seems to have had the problem on the passenger side.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I had the same problem with the left door latch handle fouling the door panel. This week I had the panel off so I looked at the mechanism. It looked like the extension for the door latch handle was not perpendicular to the door but was canted slightly. The mechanism is attached to the door with a bracket that has three raised tabs with speed nuts. I ended up bending the three attachment tabs so the door latch handle extension was more perpendicular to the door. This increased the distance from the end of the door "paddle" handle to the door panel and gave me more clearance. The "paddle" handle no longer touches the interior panel. Hope this helps and have a good day!

The rubber "O" ring helps with all this. They can dry rot over the years allowing the handle to become loose.