Improving my faux roll bar....

[TR6BILL]

Since I have a fake roll bar, the one I adapted a windblocker and 3rd brake lite to, and now that EVERYTHING is removed from the rear...wonder if I can reinforce the faux bar to the frame and approach the strength of a real one. Underneath the body, the multiple bolts that affix the fake bar to the body are readily visible, and so is the frame beneath. Wonder if I could add a bridge to the bottom of this bar and weld or bolt this to the frame, straddling the coil spring tower. If ya'll don't quite envision this, then do as I have done and remove everything in the rear and you can see quite well. Don't want to add too much weight or make it too complicated, but I think this would greatly enhance the strength of the faux bar.

Just thinking.

 

[Brosky]

I put reinforcing plates under each side of my Moss roll bar, front and back, but they're now covered forever with POR15 and out of camera angle for a long time.

Will it help? I hope that I never have to find out.

Actually, my buddy Frank from the Cape Cod BCC was plowed into from the rear by a big old car and his TR6 was pushed across an intersection and up an embankment, where if flipped over and he crawled out with his Moss roll bar holding up the car, so I guess it won't hurt any.

 

[prb51]

Tie it into the frame (weld). They should be braced for/aft too but 4 pts to the frame should do it if you're serious.

 

[vagt6]

Regarding "fake" roll bars . . .

If you're in a crash, an improperly designed/installed roll bar could quickly become the instrument of doom for the vehicle occupants. If the fake bar comes loose or is bent in a crash, it is likely to injure, rather than protect, occupants.

The laws of physics in vehicle crashes are very unkind to us. The shear forces and G-forces present in a 30/50/60 MPH crash are amazing and can twish steel like a pretzel.

Roll bars should be very carefully designed and installed. Otherwise, they will perform the exact opposite of their intended purpose: they can kill you.

I've seen this before: I've seen people hurt by fake roll bars, and this is why I bring up this subject.

Ya gotta be very, very careful with roll bars!

 

[vettedog72]

Bill
Your insight was brilliant when you braced the frame around the roll bar attachment. If tube shocks will brake, crack or other wise destroy the frame I can imagine what a significant bump to the roll bar would do to the frame.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Bill, it is called a faux roll bar, because that is what it is. Purely decrative. Don't delude yourself that if can be anything other then what it is.

It you really want more protection, this is what you need.

Or this one, but you can no longer use the soft top.

Both bolt on for around $400.

 

[Brosky]

That's what mine cost and it looks like #1 with the brackets reversed for the angle on the front bars.

 

[trfourtune]

both of those shown, attach to the body only. better than nothing. the rear tubes attach to the wheel wells and with large enough plates will serve adequetly (sp??).
Most all the road racers go directly to the frame. Much better. they also stiffen up the frame with the cage significantly.
I understand how you want to add a frame brace up to the underside of the roll bar mounts from underneath and that is a great idea. If your roll bar mounts to the top of the rear ledge, it is good to add to the base plate and go over the ledge down to the floor and build reinforcing from the frame to bolt the top and sides.
I would also add the braces back to the wheel wells with large plates on both sides or go back through the trunk (between the wheel well and the gas tank) to the frame instead (i have a 4 so i'm not sure about the frame on the 6).
look at uncle jack's (Tony's) web site and look at the cages.
Rob