I have a paint question

[regularman]

I have a 71 midget and right now its all down to nekkid metal. I am going to paint it yellow. That was one of the colors in 1971, but the yellow I have is a bit brighter. In 1971 the midget also had the black stripe along the bottom which I intend to put back. My question is, did the black stripe extend all the way to the back quarter or not. I have seen this both ways on midgets and wanted to know the truth of it.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Nope. just between wheels.

 

[regularman]

OK, that is what I wanted to know. I will probably only need a half pint or so of paint to spray those panels.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I used some chassis black (satin finish) that I had laying around the garage.

 

[regularman]

I am going to use basecoat clearcoat. I willpaint the the black basecoat first and then tape it off and paint the rest of the car yellow, then clear the whole thing.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Just a thought... Those rocker panels get a lot of chips and scratches. I did Base/Clear on my car, except for the rockers. The satin chassis black is easy to touch up and it is very durable.

 

[Whitephrog]

The black strip did not extend to the rear quarter until 1974. For a 1971 the strip is between the wheel arches.

Yellows available for GAN5 RWA Midgets were Bronze Yellow (BLVC15) available thru August 1973, Harvest Gold (BLVC19) available May 1971 on, Limeflower (BLVC20) available July 1972 to August 1973, and Citron (BLVC73) available 1973 on.

 

[regularman]

The black strip did not extend to the rear quarter until 1974. For a 1971 the strip is between the wheel arches.

Yellows available for GAN5 RWA Midgets were Bronze Yellow (BLVC15) available thru August 1973, Harvest Gold (BLVC19) available May 1971 on, Limeflower (BLVC20) available July 1972 to August 1973, and Citron (BLVC73) available 1973 on.

Well, I am committing heresy to some I am sure. I wanted a yellow with a bit of metallic in it. I kept looking online until I found a color that I liked. I finally bought from a company called alsa. Its a color called Nuclear Yellow.

 

[leecreek]

Whoo hoo...Nice...

 

[regularman]

Whoo hoo...Nice...

Thanks, I am still considering things on how to paint it. I have painted other cars but just with enamel, this is the basecoat clearcoat. Right now I have my mind set on keeping the car apart for the basecoat and then put it together and if there is no obvious color mismatches then I will clear the whole thing once put together. I will probably rig up some kind of temporary shelter outside to do my painting, with some good fans and filters to keep dust and bugs out.

 

[bugimike]

Metallics can be tricky to paint as the "metallic" particles can "puddle" and settle in different concentrations on the bodywork! Not saying don't do it, just saying be warned and take care. When applying metallics thin "build-up" coats to "even" the distribution of the metallic particles are much better that a couple of heavy ones!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

 

[drooartz]

Should look nice when you got through. Custom colors are an easy way to make your car more yours, and easy enough to redo if you ever want to change your mind.

Good luck.

 

[regularman]

Yes, thin coates. I must be relaxed when I paint the car. I painted a mustang II a dark brown metalic once and it came out ok. Got shake the gun to keep it mixed up. I got a new hvlp gun for the job. I will practice on something before I start.

 

[jlaird]

That's the way Miss Agatha was done.

 

[ncbugeye]

Did you paint Miss Agatha yourself? I'd like to think I could do the same but have never sprayed anything larger than a Cub Scout Pinewood Derby car, and that with aerosol cans, and not very well. With something that has become so dear to me (ncbugeye) I'd be really terrified of messing it up.

But she does need a paint job...

 

[jlaird]

Oh no, Miss Agatha went out to a real paint shop up in Huntsville, AL. The one Tony uses. They do really nice work.

Now the only problems that I see that need fixed are things that I would have caught if I was in and out during the work. ie holes not filled that were PDO stuff that only a BE nut would know for sure.

But again that was due to the distance and not the shops screwups. Tony was watching for me but he is an MG guy and does not speak Bugeye. So it will have to have a bit more paint work in a couple of spots, however, since she has not had a final buff she needs to go back in any case for a couple of days.

 

[Bayless]

If you use a true basecoat then you can't touch it before applying the clear. Basecoats are generally absolutely flat and have zero durability. if you even fingerprint it, it will eventually fail under the clear or maybe not take the clear at all. So the idea of putting it all back together before clearcoating is probably not viable. Be sure to check with your paint dealer and get one who knows his materials before doing anything like that.

Bayless

 

[jlaird]

Use a urathane base coat with a bit of hardner in it, I did.

 

[regularman]

If you use a true basecoat then you can't touch it before applying the clear. Basecoats are generally absolutely flat and have zero durability. if you even fingerprint it, it will eventually fail under the clear or maybe not take the clear at all. So the idea of putting it all back together before clearcoating is probably not viable. Be sure to check with your paint dealer and get one who knows his materials before doing anything like that.

Bayless

Surely there is something made that I could wipe it all down with afterwards before clearing it. I know some brands want you to light sand the basecoat if you wait to log before applying clear. It is still going to be quite a while before I have to worry about that.

 

[Bugeye58]

It would be a good idea to have a copy of the product information sheet for whatever paint system you are using. All of the caveats should be spelled out in that.
Jeff