Question on paint typs for engine parts?

[Blackjokr]

Guys, got a 1979 MG Midget. After taking some things off sch as the air filter container and what I think is a coolant reservoir (it looks like a canteen!) and painting them with Rustoleum Black paint, I was wondering if that was the wrong move? Will this paint hold up under the heat? I know the engine valve cover I painted with a high heat paint (i think it was up to 500 degrees), but what about the parts that are not directly atatched to the engine itself such as thosedescribed above? I'd hate to drive it only to find the paint catch on fire or melt or something. Any help is GREATLY appreciated! I am a NOOBIE!

BJ

 

[Bugeye58]

The Rustoleum will be fine. If you see underhood temperatures hot enough to affect it, get out of the car, because it's on fire! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
High heat paint isn't really required on the valve cover, either. The oil fill cap is plastic, and I've never seen one melt yet. And think of all the rubber in close proximity to the engine.
Jeff

 

[Blackjokr]

Jeff,
you know what, you're right! *sigh*...common sense should have kicked in here...!!!!!!

 

[Bugeye58]

BJ, not to worry. A lot of people think that the engine is one glowing chunk of metal, But it isn't.
I ran some temp readings here awhile back, taken from various places on the cylinder head, and didn't see anything hot enough to hurt paint, even next to the exhaust ports.

Repeated here:
Here are the readings I just took with a contact themocouple, rather than infrared.
1275, at operating temp, idling after a 10 mile drive.
All temps in Fahrenheit, surface temps only.

Top of head at thermostat housing: 163.1*
#2 stud at intake/exhaust manifold: 186.3*
Exterior of exhaust manifold: Front: 289.0*
Center: 290.1*
Rear: 287.0*
Intake Manifold flanges: Front: 163.2*
Rear: 167.4*
Head at rear exhaust manifold mating flange: 220.8*
Head at #3 plug: 158.8*


Jeff

 

[tony barnhill]

Jeff you've got waay too much time on your hands....hehehe

 

[Bugeye58]

Tony, I did those temps back in June, in response to a question posed by a forum member.
I wuz only tryin' to help!
And, unfortunately, time is one thing I have very little of anymore.
Jeff

 

[Blackjokr]

I hope you didnt burn yerself mister! thanks!

 

[tony barnhill]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Tony, I did those temps back in June, in response to a question posed by a forum member.
I wuz only tryin' to help!
And, unfortunately, time is one thing I have very little of anymore.
Jeff
[/QUOTE]

Just teasin' ya, Jeff...

 

[Bugeye58]

Oh, I know. Paybacks and all! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff

 

[Exotexs]

My Jaguars are twice as hot in the engine compartment as the MG, and I've painted lots of brackets and parts in close proximity to the engine with Rustoleum Gloss Black, nothing has happened, years of driving in all kinds of weather and traffic.

Here's a tip: Paint the parts with Rustoleum fast dry paint, let them dry to the touch, then install them quickly, go driving, the heat of the engine will "cook" and cure the paint as if you had put them in the oven! The result? longer lasting paint jobs. Once that paint "cooks", it becomes hard like porcelain.

it sure beats wasting your money in stuff like POR-15!

Ex

 

[Blackjokr]

rock on! excellent idea! thank you!

 

[Steve_S]

There isn't really a comparison between baked-on spray paint and POR15. I bake paint too, but it's nowhere near as tough as POR15 is. But paint is better for some things, mainly anything you might damage and want to re-coat. It's easier to spray again than to re-apply POR15. Air cans come to mind.

 

[Exotexs]

paint is better for some things, mainly anything you might damage and want to re-coat. It's easier to spray again than to re-apply POR15


my point precisely. I used POR-15 once, and never again thank you.

Ex

 

[Exotexs]

(it looks like a canteen!)

it's a built-in coffee maker.

 

[Steve_S]

You may have used POR in the wrong place. I use it on suspension parts and there is nothing better. Hard as nails, impervious to brake fluid and other fluids, and easy to keep clean.

You can re-coat POR but you have to clean and lightly sand the parts just as with any other painted surface. But with POR you need it REALLY clean.

The only reason spray is easier to re-apply is that it's in a spray can. POR15 has a short shelf life once opened and a small amount goes a VERY long way. So re-coating one small part will cost you an entire can.

 

[Exotexs]

I'll take a cheap can of Rustoleum over POR-15 anytime!

And now they have a SATIN BLACK finish, perfect for engine compartment brackets, bolts, not to mention Radiators, Heater boxes, seat frames, bumper brackets, aaarrrggghh!

Manifolds: that's another subject entirely. I prefer to have them Porcelanized. Very expensivo.

 

[Steve_S]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]It's easier to spray again than to re-apply POR15...

my point precisely. I used POR-15 once, and never again thank you...

I'll take a cheap can of Rustoleum over POR-15 anytime! [/QUOTE]
You'd rather use a cheap can of spray paint because POR15 is too tough? The only thing tougher than POR15 is tearing apart a suspension system to re-paint it! Spray certainly has it's place, even cheap spray. But no one type of paint is good for everything.