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T-Series clutch system on a midget

kmcormick9

Senior Member
Offline
i need to replace the clutch master and slave cylinder on my midget 1500. anybody have a link with directions on how to do this or anything?
 

wolfman

Senior Member
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Replacing the clutch master and slave on a 1500 Midget is a straight forward job. Disconnect, unbolt, remove. Sounds simple, lol. If you jack up the car and place it securely on jack stands, you can get underneath to remove the slave cylinder pinch bolt. With the pinch bolt removed, the slave will slide out of the bell housing, it takes some wiggling, but it does slide out. One clevis pin and two bolts hold the master to the pedal box. You can disconnect the hose at either end to remove it all from the car. There are only a couple of things that I did to make the installation and bleeding job a lot easier. Because the bleed port on the slave is lower than inlet connection, it is almost impossible to bleed the clutch. Where the clutch hose runs down through the hole in the battery box, I enlarged the hole so as to fit the slave through the battery box with it connected to the hose and master. I then proceeded to bench bleed the master and slave cyliner. I used a spare push rod in the slave and wrapped a large rubber band to provide some back force. I then bleed the slave while operating the master manually. Once the system was bled, I installed the master, run the slave down through the enlarge hole in the battery box and installed the slave. Don't forget to cromet the new hole to protect the hose. I don't have any problem bleeding the clutch system either. If I need to bleed my clutch, I remove the slave, slide it out through the battery box, suspend it from something to make the slave and vent port the highest point in the system and bleed it.

Just one way of doing it.
 
OP
K

kmcormick9

Senior Member
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i think the hardest part for me would be getting the slave off that pedal box. i pulled a good one from a car at the junkyard and it was NOT EASY. is there some trick to make this easier?
 

wolfman

Senior Member
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No trick I use my 1/4 drive ratchet set with a long extension and deep well socket. Getting it back on was tougher as I kept droping the nut off the socket. Finally ended up inserting a wad of masking tape into the socket to hold the nut and I used some nail polish to hold the washer onto the nut. Don't laugh, the wive's nail polish works wonders when I need a temporary sticky surface or to mark a timing mark.
 

GTsRFine

Jedi Hopeful
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Tell me if I'm dealing with a DPO bodge or not.
The hose from the clutch master to the slave is pushed on to the fitting. No clamps or anything to secure it. Looking at the parts breakdown pictures, there are no clamps that I could see. Is this correct?
These 1500's are weird. No valve stem seals, etc.
 
OP
K

kmcormick9

Senior Member
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well i had to take it in to get the brake master replaced under warranty so i just tole them to go ahead and do the clutch while they had it
 
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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by GTsRFine:
Tell me if I'm dealing with a DPO bodge or not.
The hose from the clutch master to the slave is pushed on to the fitting. No clamps or anything to secure it. Looking at the parts breakdown pictures, there are no clamps that I could see. Is this correct?
These 1500's are weird. No valve stem seals, etc.
<hr></blockquote>


your not. thats the way they are.
 

Tom Bedenbaugh

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
One thing I do to make the job of installing master cyl easier is to weld the bottom bolt to the master cyl. Thet was all I have to do is slide it in and put the washer, and nut on it. I use a mig welder and just tack it on enough to hold it there.
 

wolfman

Senior Member
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Yup the ends of the hoses are pressed on. I don't know by what method, but I sure wouldn't try it at home.

My pedal box has studs welded in place for both the brake and clutch master cylinders.
 
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