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Ctypt Clutch saga part 3

T

Tinster

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Ok, I stopped by the Crypt at the funeral home
today to look in box with other Magic clutch
components to compare with those I removed.

Guess what? They are quite different visually as well
as dimensionally.

Anyone care to make a stab at what I removed?
and tell me what clutch assembly I need to purchase
now? All the new pieces seem to be maybe 1/8" higher
(thicker) The T.O bearing is obviously quite different.

And the costly fork shaft I am having machined are for
the new fork and new T/O bearing. BLARGH!!

Thanks as always- dale

What a fine pickle I am in.

NEWCLUTCH.jpg
 

Banjo

Yoda
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Keep calm Dale. Things have changed a lot since that last clutch was put in. New ones look vastly different. I'm not certian in your instance, but I'm sure someone here can varify that all is well.
The truly critical dimensions are the bolt holes where the pressure plate(that thing with the fingers) bolts to the flywheel.
There's a lot of rust on that new one. Does the surface on the other side look ok?
Gotta go out. TTFN.
 
OP
G

Guest

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Looks like the salt air got to your Sach's pressure plate. Steel wool it off. Koyo bearing looks good. Go for it.
 
OP
T

Tinster

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Ben, I actually DID have the brains to see if
the bolt holes line up. They do.

The new piece is deeper, fatter.

thanks,

d
 

Banjo

Yoda
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yes, everything is different, but when it's all used togeather it should work. That's why it's sold in a "kit" . and not individually.
I think you're golden.
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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Dale, those parts are correct. Look at my pictures from my clutch replacement.

"Notice the size of the Land Cruiser T/O bearing on the left compared to the Gunst on the right. Dave and Charles from TRF carefully chose the mating parts for the TRF Magic Clutch kits and have been successfully selling them for several years."

clutch 016 (Custom).jpg


The whole enchilada:

https://www.74tr6.com/clutchreplacement.htm
 
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