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My H type Carb M version is leaking fuel at Jet bearing area. This "M" carb is only about three years old that I bought new from Moss. Too soon for three year old new carb to be leaking fuel I think. I had rebuilt my old M carbs so I can do it but hoping for a shortcut instead of pulling carb, air-box, etc, off engine. If it is the cork sealing ring I think I can do work in place? I have an older unused cork sealing ring soaking in oil right now. That has to be problem area, right?<br>
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Another note: I lose oil in this (new) dash pot also. Unrelated I am sure. On <u>my old M carbs</u> I bought Moss <u>no leak rubber replacement Gland washer</u> at top of jet bearing area. Seemed like a great idea until I realized it caused choke to stick. Ended up putting cork gland washer back in. Anyone else had any experiences like this? Looks like this cork washer needs to be replaced also.<br>
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Update: I am lost. It seems to be leaking fuel worse than ever after replacing two jet corks and one bottom ring sealing cork. Maybe I should not have soaked bottom sealing cork in oil over night? Leak has an oil color to the fuel smell. Dash pot? I think I will install new bottom ring cork dry and see if that might do it. If that is not it I will have to remove carb and look for a hair line crack in case. Any other ideas? Marty<br>
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Final Update: I was in shock when removing the carburetor to see the quality of workmanship on my brand new pair of 100M carbs made in UK ordered though Moss, order #370-738. The pictures tell it all. The crack in the casting is unrelated as far as I can tell to fuel leak but just another example of the workmanship. It looks like they missed the final machine step in thumbnail photo below but even so how could you not see this when assembling the carbs? I spent the better part of a day removing their rough machine work with 800 grit sandpaper on a sheet of glass. I did not take the other carb off car since it was not leaking petrol. I should have. I think they are made in pairs. Moss is closed now because of Wuhan Flu but will contact them when open again but do not blame them for the problems. Marty
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Another note: I lose oil in this (new) dash pot also. Unrelated I am sure. On <u>my old M carbs</u> I bought Moss <u>no leak rubber replacement Gland washer</u> at top of jet bearing area. Seemed like a great idea until I realized it caused choke to stick. Ended up putting cork gland washer back in. Anyone else had any experiences like this? Looks like this cork washer needs to be replaced also.<br>
<br>
Update: I am lost. It seems to be leaking fuel worse than ever after replacing two jet corks and one bottom ring sealing cork. Maybe I should not have soaked bottom sealing cork in oil over night? Leak has an oil color to the fuel smell. Dash pot? I think I will install new bottom ring cork dry and see if that might do it. If that is not it I will have to remove carb and look for a hair line crack in case. Any other ideas? Marty<br>
<br>
Final Update: I was in shock when removing the carburetor to see the quality of workmanship on my brand new pair of 100M carbs made in UK ordered though Moss, order #370-738. The pictures tell it all. The crack in the casting is unrelated as far as I can tell to fuel leak but just another example of the workmanship. It looks like they missed the final machine step in thumbnail photo below but even so how could you not see this when assembling the carbs? I spent the better part of a day removing their rough machine work with 800 grit sandpaper on a sheet of glass. I did not take the other carb off car since it was not leaking petrol. I should have. I think they are made in pairs. Moss is closed now because of Wuhan Flu but will contact them when open again but do not blame them for the problems. Marty
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