Front Wheel Bearings

[Tinster]

How to repack or replace your front wheel bearings:

I noticed lately that quite a few members are attempting
to rebuild their front suspension systems. A lot of
these guys are non-mechanic owners just like me.

If your front suspension is shot, your front wheel bearings
probably need looking at as well. A few technical wizzards
here on the forum walked me thru the front wheel bearing
process. Their gracious guidance was appreciated and yielded
me a 100% successful project. I documented the process with
a few decent photos and some text.

I hope this "How To" helps out a few DIY guys like myself.
I'm happy to share what was shared with me!!

dale

https://www.scribd.com/doc/260591/wheelBearingsFinal

 

[DNK]

Speaking of wheel bearings, thank you Dale for reminding me. On the *8 when I replaced my bearings and races the inside seal wants to hang up on the hub. When you remove the disc the seal and the inside bearing stay on the hub. That ain't right. Any clue?

 

[TR3driver]

Why ain't it right ? That's the way every RWD car I've ever owned has worked, including all my Triumphs. The seal is a light drive fit into the hub; in operation it turns with the hub and rides on the stationary spindle. To remove it, generally you tap the inner race out, which forces the seal ahead of it.

 

[Tinster]

Why ain't it right ? That's the way every RWD car I've ever owned has worked, including all my Triumphs. The seal is a light drive fit into the hub; in operation it turns with the hub and rides on the stationary spindle. To remove it, generally you tap the inner race out, which forces the seal ahead of it.

Randall,

That's how mine worked. If ya think about it,
it should be that way.

d

 

[DNK]

Randall- I misspoke. The seal and inner bearing remain on the SPINDLE when I remove the hub.
Sorry

 

[Tinster]

Don,

Was the inner bearing stuck tight on the spindle?
Or could you pull it right off with your fingers?

d

 

[DNK]

Not finger moveable. The seal was stuck on too.

 

[TR3driver]

In that case, I agree, "not right". Not sure what the problem would be, but I'd guess water has gotten in and caused the surfaces to rust. In any case, it's got to come apart.

If you have a bearing puller it should be easy. If not, perhaps you can grab the roller cage with a gear puller, then when that breaks off, grab the lip of the race with the same gear puller. If that doesn't work, my next approach would be to cut the bearing race with a Dremel & cutoff wheel.

The bearing and seal are toast anyway, so don't bother trying to save them. With any luck, you can clean up and reuse the stub axle.

 

[TR3driver]

Oh wait, you said you replaced the bearings; so you must've already gotten it apart. Once it's apart, look for damage or distortion in the stub axle, or possibly even just grit/swarf in the joint. One of my stub axles was several thousandths out of round, apparently beaten oval by 'spirited' driving over the years.

 

[DNK]

The original bearing a seal came right off with the hub. It is only the new one that gets stuck. I can feel it when I put the hub back on it doesn't feel right. You really have to tug on the hub to pull it off with the new stuff.
The spindle is clean as a whistle.

 

[TR3driver]

I'd still put a mike on it. Possible you got a poorly made bearing, but unlikely IMO.

 

[hondo402000]

Hey Dale
I noticed in your step by step procedure that in the beginning photo there was no cap covering the nut and cotter pin, had you already taken it off or do you not have a cap. Reason is when I did my front end the caps were missing on mine too, it took about 6 months to get a set from TRF, if you dont have them you need to get some, PS I looked high and low at all parts stores and nothing I could find would fit

Hondo

 

[Tinster]

Hondo,

I was kinda odd.

One was missing, one was in place but beat up.
I ordered two new ones. Moss Motors, if I remember
correctly.

Don: I am thinking one or the other must be out
of tolerance round.

d

 

[tom628]

When I've had that problem it's usually been caused by an almost imperceptable nick, burr, scratch, etc.
Try polishing the stub axle with crocus cloth.

Tom

 

[DNK]

All the crocuses quit blooming in March. Guess I'll have to wait until spring.

 

[DNK]

Tom, Is what you refer to crocus cloth emery cloth.

Randall,and all. Photographed stubb and below is what I found. Took some 400 wet dry and removed it. When I removed the hub to look at stubb, the parts stayed in the hub where they belong this time. Looks like something got hot.
I know that Ted sell bigger bearing hubs,might be an idea. The outside bearing on the passenger side was low on grease

 

[tom628]

Don: The crocus cloth is similar, but much finer than emery cloth and usually has a smooth, reddish appearance on the abrasive side.
However, with those scratches you were better off using the coarser 400 grit.

Tom

 

[Tinster]

I wonder what made those scrathes?

d

 

[DrEntropy]

DPO ignored a REALLY bad inner bearing for a long time, IMO.

 

[DNK]

well removed the other side to put the bigger discs on there and the same thing happened. the bearing and seal stuck. I looked at it real close and i think maybe neither one was straight on the spindle.When reinstalling I made sure it went on straight and I spun it and torqued it and loosened it and spun it. I think it is fine now.