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I guess I'm not the first one to buy one. I received mine this past week and it looks great. It now has the Welch logo on it instead of "itf". Where can I buy the spray stuff for the foam to make the dirt stick to it and with the Filter there was 2 white foam pieces and no instructions where they go. I assume(hate that word), that they go between the filter and carbs? I can install stuff backwards but I'm trying to break that habit. Are you guys happy with the Filter?
I guess I'm not the first one to buy one. I received mine this past week and it looks great. It now has the Welch logo on it instead of "itf". Where can I buy the spray stuff for the foam to make the dirt stick to it and with the Filter there was 2 white foam pieces and no instructions where they go. I assume(hate that word), that they go between the filter and carbs? I can install stuff backwards but I'm trying to break that habit. Are you guys happy with the Filter?
Patrick,
I am happy with the filter. I don't recall any white foam pieces either.
I did not like the red plastic so I painted it black. Just a matter of personal taste, but I happen to think that it looks much better with everything else in the engine bay.
Lin
Patrick,
I am happy with the filter. I don't recall any white foam pieces either.
I did not like the red plastic so I painted it black. Just a matter of personal taste, but I happen to think that it looks much better with everything else in the engine bay.
Lin
On second observation, maybe the "foam" things are actually plastic, but a medium soft type? Here's some pics with one showing the complete Filter and the other with the white "plastic gaskets" showing a thckness of about 1/4". I test fitted the Filter and I didn't see anything hitting anything without those "white" things. If all goes well I should be able to post the finished install pics today.
It is an extremely close fit. I put white out on the top most portion of the airfilter and closed the hood. A very small amount of whiteout appeared on the hood . After applying a small amount of pressure on the filter frame I no longer had any contact with the hood. I placed the white spacers between the carbs and the filter frame.
It is a tight fit but you only have to untwist the three quick release catches at the top of it to remove the filter for cleaning/re-oiling. The bottom has a flange to keep it in place. The Release catch towrds the front gave me a tough time because it can't be accessed with a screwdriver or the ring turned very easily. My car is on jackstands so that made it a little harder to get at ittoo. I believe that if I take one of my spare Unisyn's and notch the sides of it I might be able to use it to syncronize the carbs.
The rear corner of the red plastic was touching the underside of the hood so watch out for that. I had to file it down a little bit. All Healeys probably have a little vairance in that area.
It was my belief that the white pieces are to be used as a cheap version of a stub stack and therefore to be placed on top of the filter plate. This is to vortex or flow the air more efficiently in to the carb.
I put a normal thin gasket in between the carb and plate.
What you need to get is an aluminum stub stack. I am using the ones that APT have.
When installing mine a couple of months ago, I found that there was still a gap between the carb and the white 'gasket' and no matter how much I tried adjusting the nut and bolt balance, I couldn't get it to completely close, so once it was all in place I sealed it with a silicone sealant. This is disappointing but it's a workable solution that I suspect will need reapplying once every couple of years.....and that's as good an excuse as any to get the tuning right too.
With the air filter oil, I haven't been able to get any locally so I'll order online - does it go on the inside or outside i.e. on the filter foam facing the bonnet or on the filter foam facing the carbs?
Though less of an issue with carbureted engines (especially ones capable of ingesting a healthy dose of engine oil...) on computer-managed engines with a hot-wire MAF, over oiling the filter can contaminate and KILL the sensor.
K&N has contributed to the replacement of several BMW MAFs just in my own garage alone, coinciding with the sale of a new OE PAPER filter element. I always advise against using them, unless no other option exists (like with forced induction).
Again, NOT an issue with Healeys, but just a PSA for anyone using them in a modern car.
Thanks Carroll. That is an original '60's period accessory valve cover which I've had since the mid '70's. The recessed areas on the top of it were a medium gray when I got it. I just thought the engine green needed to go there instead.
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