The old front drum wheel cylinders had a tiny ball under the bleed screw; I'd encountered cars where the bleeder was tightened down so much that the steel ball was locked into the aluminum casting (just putting that out there...).
I really like Brinkerhoff's suggestion; never needed to try that, but I can see the advantage for problematic circuits that don't act right!
The one thing that comes to mind, is did you bleed the m/cyl by itself__often referred to as bench-bleeding? Are these the original self-contained reservoir m/cyls, or the combined reservoir (the type used through the end of Healey production)? Even with the m/c mounted in the car, you can still bench-bleed it with a scrap of old tubing. Substitute the tube for the car's brake pipe, and make sure it reaches below the level in the reservoir. Several easy strokes will free the m/c of any air present.
When bleeding the front drum brakes, I don't rely on getting all the air out of the two (2) wheel cylinders through the one (1) bleed screw. Instead, I crack loose the fittings on the connecting pipe(s) in sequence. chasing the air out of the circuits. You can do this same practice at every union as well.
If there's air in there, cracking every union while maintaining a LOW (15 PSI is plenty adequate) column of pressure on the reservoir will expel it all eventually!
Picture of bench-bleeding in situ:
scrap-tube coming off the brake m/c:
opposite end of tube into the reservoir (remote on this MKIII):
Good luck (I KNOW how frustrating this can be, but you'll get it__the car never wins...)!