General Tech TR4A Brake Bleeding

[KVH]

Am I correct that the rear wheel cylinders on a TR4A are bled off of just the passenger side? The two rear wheel cylinders appear to share the same brake line, and there is no bleed screw on the driver's side.

I'm having trouble bleeding my brakes and eliminating the soft "mush" feel.

Thanks all.

 

[Darrell_Walker]

Hmm, the TR7/TR8 has a set up where the line goes to one cylinder, then from where the bleed would be is another line to the other cylinder. But my TR4A IRS has a 3-way union, with lines to each wheel cylinder. Do you have a live axle version? Maybe that is different?

 

[KVH]

Yes mine is live axle.

 

[Popeye]

Live axle only has three bleed nipples. Passenger side rear, pax side front, and driver side front.

What fluid are you using? I’m not intending to make this a “political” posting , but if you use DOT5 (not 5.1) it may take some time and repeated bleeding to get the air bubbles out

 

[Popeye]

Also if the brake lines are new, check for leaks that can result in a mushy pedal. I had a few connection points to tighten, and one instance where I’m simply replacing the brake line to eliminate a leak.

 

[sp53]

i would put a piece of clear plastic hose on all the bleeds then put the hoses into some small jars and open the bleeds and let gravity bleed them for a while. You can put a little brake fluid into the jars to cover the open end of the hoses at the bottom of the jars and pump the pedal every so often or pump the the a lot if you have the fluid in jar to act like a sealer. Keep an eye on the main reservoir to see how long it takes to empty. My experience is that it takes hours for the reservoir to go down if you do not pump out all the fluid.

steve