Hi Larry,
The biggest single improvement I can suggest is to replace all the bleeder valves with Russell Speed Bleeders or similar. These have a one-way valve built into them, and the threads are coated with a sealant.
Speed Bleeders make the job far, far easier. They cost about $10 a pair, so $20 for front and rear. (You might eventually want one on the clutch hydraulics, too.) You can find them at local auto parts stores, and online at places like
www.summitracing.com.
Speed Bleeders are made in various size/thread/length. On the front calipers of a TR4, I seem to recall you need 3/8-24 x 1.5" (ISTR originals were 1.25", but I don't think that size is as widely available). On the rear, I think 3/8-24 x 1.0" will work (but longer can be used and might be more convenient).
Start the bleeding process at the corner farthest from the master cylinder. That's one of the rears, but I think which one varies from live axle to IRS models... I know it's the LH rear on TR4.
Note: I have used Locktite thread sealant (comes in a small tube) on the threads of old standard bleeder valve successfully, to help keep air from getting drawn in. This stuff eventually all gets wiped off or squeezed out, though, and it sets up to some degree over time (good to keep the valve from loosening, but bad if the corners of the nut are rounded and worn).
Use of teflon plumbers tape is not generally recommended because of a real danger of getting bits and pieces into the hydraulic system where it might block something or cause other problems, but done very carefully it can work too.
Frankly, I've never had much luck with MityVac for this job. An olive jar partially filled with brake fluid, a short length of tubing and careful pumping of the pedal by an assistant seems the best method... at least for me. Tell the assistant to operate the pedal slowly both directions and never push the pedal completely to the floor. In theory, with Speed Bleeders you should be able to do it as a one person job. However, that means climbing under the car to loosen, then out to push the pedal, then back under to tighten.
You probably already know... Watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir very carefully. If it gets too low, there will be air drawn into the system.
Some day I'm going to invest in a proper brake bleeding system like most auto repair shops use!
Hope this helps!
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