Bleeding the Brakes

[Scot]

Hi All,

I have had my BJ8 for about 1 1/2 years now and wish to bleed the brake lines(looks dirty and last change unknown) and replace with fresh fluid.
Two questions, first, what are the considerations if any when bleeding a system that shares fluid with the clutch system? Second, would Castrol fluid be OK with a DOT rating exceeding 3 or 4.
This would be my first attempt at this so I'm just asking the stupid questions first.


Scot

 

[Blonde Healey Girl]

Scot, In a feeble attempt to contribute to this forum what little knowledge I have gained while owning an LBC heres two tibits that may help. First ,on the bleeder screws, only use a box end wrench or flare nut wrench, mine used a 7/16". Open end wrenches will usually round off the nut. The other thing is, if they are rusty ,spray some "PB Blaster" on them to loosen the rust. (wear safety glasses because the spray has a nasty habit of hitting the bleeder then shooting back into your eye!)
As far as what type of fluid to use, check back in the forum, there is a good discussion on every kind of brake fluid know to man....

 

[Blonde Healey Girl]

Scot, In a feeble attempt to contribute to this forum what little knowledge I have gained while owning an LBC heres two tibits that may help. First ,on the bleeder screws, only use a box end wrench or flare nut wrench, mine used a 7/16". Open end wrenches will usually round off the nut. The other thing is, if they are rusty ,spray some "PB Blaster" on them to loosen the rust. (wear safety glasses because the spray has a nasty habit of hitting the bleeder then shooting back into your eye!)
As far as what type of fluid to use, check back in the forum, there is a good discussion on every kind of brake fluid know to man....

 

[CDK]

BHG has given good advice. The bleeders breaking loose will be the first thing to overcome. PB BLASTER is good, (for all forum members)- if you can find it try AEROKROIL by Kano Products it is about the best spray\antirustbreaking lubricant I have ever used, you will not be disappointed.The box,tubing wrench or a deep socket is also a must. AT even a hint of rounding switch to a pair of vise grips, carefully lock them on the flats of bleeder screw and very slowly try to work loose. Sometimes a impact motion will work good. If you even think they are going to break off stop and think things over because the next step might be getting a new caliper. If all four bleeders come out conside this a major acompplishment. At this point do you self a favor and get four new ones (they are cheap)and Neversieze the threads before putting back together. Gravity bleeding is slow but real effective and you only need one person. Other wise get a friend and have them pump well you bleed. There are also pressure kits available.Good luck.

 

[John Turney]

Good advice above. Also, since the clutch and brakes share the same fluid reservoir, bleed the clutch too.

John, BN4

 

[ThomP]

Bleed it all, open each bleed screw and flush, including the clutch untill it all runs clear. Dot 4 only (unless your system has purple stuff in it then use Dot 5) We should ALL be in the habit of doing this every 2 years. Don't overtighten the bleed screws when done. The bleed screws have tapered seats and seal without a lot of heavy handed wrench work. It will make the job easier two years from now.

 

[John Turney]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Scot:
By the way, where would the clutch bleed screw be located?<hr></blockquote>

It's on the clutch slave cylinder, which is on the right side of the bell housing. You should get the car up on jack stands or a rack (easier than taking out the transmission tunnel).

John, BN4

 

[Scot]

Thanks to those that responded to the brake bleeding question. The suggestions here will make the job a little easier and I know have saved me major problems!
By the way, where would the clutch bleed screw be located?

 

[w. scott brunkhurst]

Castrol Low Moisture brake fluid has never faded when I was on the track.

SB

 

[ThomP]

There was an article in one (or both) of the Healey club magazines that show how to make a special tool for reaching the clutch bleeder. It is made from a Craftsman 7/16 box end wrench. I made one, it didn't work. It would overlay the photo perfectly, but I couldn't figure out how it was any advantage. I found that a "stubby" 7/16 combination wrench works perfectly.

 

[Louie]

Castrol LMA is available at Pep Boys.
Allow no other brand to be used.
If Silicon fluid has been used (purple), check the archives.