TR2/3/3A TR 3A Rear Lug bolts

[RonR]

Folks.

Does anyoen have any suggestions on how to remove the threaded rear wheel lug bolts on a TR3?

I am going back to the original steel wheels and the existing lug bolts have been cut off to accomodate wire wheels.

Thanks.
Ron

 

[karls59tr]

Find two smaller nuts of the same thread that will fit on to the bolt. Tighten them together then put the wrench on the bottom bolt and back the bolt out. Maybe squirt some penetrating oil on the bolts to free them up.

 

[titanic]

I think the ends are peened, which should be ground off before doing the double nut technique.
Berry

 

[TR3driver]

Ends are definitely peened, and must be ground off. Sometimes it's easier to repeat several times, ie grind as much as you can without damaging the hub, back the studs out as far as they will turn, then screw them back in and grind some more. That way you get some room to grind the stud away without cutting into the hub. The hub will crush the peened area inwards.

Thread is 7/16-20 UNF. With persistence it can be done on the car, but my preference is to pull the axles out. That unfortunately means you will need new lock tabs. Might also be a good time to change the inner oil seals if they show any signs of letting gear oil into the bearing grease. Don't try to separate the hubs from the shafts, though.

Since the old studs are ruined anyway (cannot be reused once removed), you can just grab them with Vice Grips if you want. I've even been known to use a pipe wrench.

 

[NutmegCT]

Just a thought - if you're going back to the original steel wheels, check them for bending. Over the years, bumps and curbs can bend the wheel. It's tough to re-shape steel, so it usually can't be returned to true. Usual symptom: wobbling at speed, like an out of balance tire. Check by mounting the wheel, touch your finger to the side of the rim, slowly turn the wheel, and see if the rim moves "in and out" from your fingertip.

Tom M.

 

[Geo Hahn]

All this removal advice raises the question -- what is the best method for securing the new studs with the hub still in situ?

Seems like peening (at least that whopping great mash of peening the originals have) would not be practical. Lesser peening from the side? Loctite? Spot weld?

 

[CJD]

I'm sure there are a lot of options. I'd be inclined to clean it well and then locktite them. I'd torque about 15% higher than normal...and they'll stay.

 

[PeterK]

I did mine off the car but I used a dull cold chisel and made a star-shaped peen by turning the chisel between each whack. This is after the threaded were full home with double nuts.