Bugeye jack points to remove rear axle

[drooartz]

I've been AWOL for a while, finally gathering myself back together.

I'm ready to dive into my Bugeye restoration, and have my first of very many questions. I want to pull the rear axle and suspension off so that I can rebuild it all on the bench. Where is the best place to jack up the car so that the rear axle will be free? I've got the car on my 4-post lift so I need to use the jack tray and a little ingenuity for this one. I've got some bottle jack/stand combos that should work fine, and I may need to engineer a beam if I need to go any wider.

Thoughts?

 

[JPSmit]

I recall that I used a 2x4 across the car and then jackstands under the 2x4

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I use the pinch weld under the sills. Maybe use JP's advice but cut some grooves in the 2x4 for the pinch weld.

 

[drooartz]

Thanks guys, that makes sense. I was thinking that the pinch weld at the back of the rear bulkhead was likely strong enough. A slotted 2x4 would be easy enough to put together.

 

[JPSmit]

I don't recall that I slotted it - though it makes sense. However, I might double up the 2x4 below the slot as, depending on the depth, if the jackstands are outboard of the pinch weld (or get bumped) it won't take much to crack the lumber. Belt and braces.

 

[SaxMan]

On my '69, I was told to put jack stands underneath the mount points for the springs forward of the rear wheels on the body tub. I know the Bugeye uses the 1/4 elliptic springs, so it may be different.

 

[drooartz]

Thanks, I was looking at those mounts as well

 

[JPSmit]

Thanks, I was looking at those mounts as well

Recall too that this doesn't weigh a lot so it is more about holding it steady than anything else.

 

[drooartz]

Recall too that this doesn't weigh a lot so it is more about holding it steady than anything else.

True. My car doesn't currently have any drivetrain (or much of anything else). I've contemplated tying down the front end just to be sure.

 

[JPSmit]

True. My car doesn't currently have any drivetrain (or much of anything else). I've contemplated tying down the front end just to be sure.

Might not be a bad idea and recall that you probably won't be able to torque everything up properly until the engine gives it some weight, otherwise you can move the whole car - don't ask me how I know.

 

[drooartz]

I sense a story.

Planning on tying things down just to be sure, and good thought on torquing things down.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I assumed you were going to remove the springs as well.
But if you are not removing the springs then certainly the spring plates are the best best.

 

[drooartz]

I am going to remove the springs. Do I need to fully remove the spring plates or just the rearmost bolts?

 

[JPSmit]

I am going to remove the springs. Do I need to fully remove the spring plates or just the rearmost bolts?

I think it will depend on the condition of the plates - if no rust, leave them.

BTW this thread started Dec 6, it is now Dec 13. I suspect there is about 3 hours work. Just sayin'

(says the pot calling the kettle black )

 

[drooartz]

Fair enough JP, but in my defense I have 2 weeks off for winter break, that's when I'll dive in. I did buy a 2x4 to use for jacking the car up, so I have done something.

 

[JPSmit]

Fair enough JP, but in my defense I have 2 weeks off for winter break, that's when I'll dive in. I did buy a 2x4 to use for jacking the car up, so I have done something.

and clearly your budget for car work this month went into that 2X4

 

[drooartz]

and clearly your budget for car work this month went into that 2X4

Hey, I also bought some stands/jacks. Give me some credit.

 

[JPSmit]

Hey, I also bought some stands/jacks. Give me some credit.

That was more of a comment (slightly belated) on the ongoing price of lumber

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I would remove the rear springs to clean and remove the rust from both the pocket and the spring itself. The pan itself is welded in place.