TR2/3/3A TR 3A Constant Pinion Pilot Bush

[Tinkerman]

Item B17 Page 4 of the StanParts book. Just pulled my old one out, have a new one ready to go in. Should I lubricate the new one to help ease it in?
The one I took out was recessed by about 3/16". The factory manual does not show it as being recessed, does it matter one way or the other?

Any comments deeply appreciated!

Thanks, Tinkerman

 

[Geo Hahn]

If I'm thinking of the same part -- doesn't the manual say to soak it in oil overnight?

Ignore if I'm am confused about the part you mean (I don't have the StanParts book).

 

[TR3driver]

You're talking about the bush in the rear of the crankshaft, right ? P/N 47246.

Although there is a good chance the new one does not need it, I would follow the book advice of soaking it in motor oil overnight. It should push into place easily, so the lube isn't needed for that; but that is the only lubrication it's ever going to get, so ...

3/16" sounds about right. The original shaft sticks out a long way, so the positioning of the bush isn't critical. And even with the somewhat shorter shaft on the 4-synchro boxes, that bushing doesn't seem to be a common problem area.

 

[martx-5]

Looking in the parts book, I see the part in question...the pilot bushing for the trans input shaft. The factory repair manual just says to insert it. It's an oilite bushing that should be impregnated with oil. You can always add more if you wish by soaking it awhile. IIRC, when I put mine in, it just pushed in without too much effort. I don't remember if it was recessed or not. Is the new one the same length as the old one?

 

[Tinkerman]

While it makes perfect sense to soak it in oil overnight as you both mention, and that is the correct part number Randall, I have gone through the manual two or three times and cannot find a reference to it. She who is to be obeyed does accuse me various eyesite failings, so maybe I'm looking for info in all the wrong places, heh. Anyhow a bit of direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you to both of you for the info.

Regards, Tinkerman

 

[TR3driver]

Hah, knew I'd read it somewhere! Apparently the factory workshop manual does not mention soaking it; but back then, all Oilite had to be soaked before being put into service. It did not come pre-oiled then, even though it (mostly) does today.

However, Mr. Haynes did mention soaking it, in paragraph 66 of the engine section :

 

[martx-5]

It did not come pre-oiled then, even though it (mostly) does today.

We use oilite bushings in alot of starters that we rebuild at work. The question came up awhile back about lubricating them during assembly, or possibly soaking beforehand. When you look at the plastic bag that they come in, it's all oil soaked. I took several samples of the most popular numbers and squished them in a press. It was hard to believe how much oil came out of them. It's like they are a tiny sponge. Needless to say, the starters that have these type of bushings we do not need to lubricate any further.

However, for your application, as they say, it wouldn't hurt.

 

[TR3driver]

It's like they are a tiny sponge.

Exactly! "Oilite" was a brand name for sintered bronze, which is basically a sponge made by mashing a bunch of bronze particles together. The process leaves pores all through the piece (kind of like marbles in a jar) that can be filled with oil. SAE 841 specifies something like 18% oil by volume, which is a lot.

 

[Tinkerman]

Thanks all of you for all the information. The one manual that I don't have is the Haynes. Guess I'll have to look for one. An oil soaked bushing is a new one for me. I may have known about them way back before the Ark landed, but it isn't coming through now.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Anyone have a Haynes Manual they would like to sell? </span>

Again a fine example of the value of the forum. My bushing is now soaking up the oil!

Thank's all of You, tinkerman

 

[sp53]

I think the Haynes manual might still be available. It seems I bought one not that long ago at the local parts store, but time is relative when I live in my history. Anyways I find the Haynes to be a very helpful manual. I do not want to muddy the water, but one day I was at a local specialty shop that only sells/does brakes and clutches. I told the mechanic there that I was soaking my pilot shaft bushing in motor oil and he said that what I wanted to do was soak it in 3 in 1 oil. He had this explanation that talked about what oil is made of and everything and that if I did not use 3 in 1 I could/would have problems yada yada. The truth is I had soaked the bushing twenty years before and it worked fine for those twenty years. So here is my concern was this guy just an over concerned tweecker or is there some truth in this.

 

[Moseso]

I told the mechanic there that I was soaking my pilot shaft bushing in motor oil and he said that what I wanted to do was soak it in 3 in 1 oil. He had this explanation that talked about what oil is made of and everything and that if I did not use 3 in 1 I could/would have problems yada yada.

What he's talking about is the difference between "motor" oil and "machine" oil, which 3-in-1 is. Motor oil is meant to be used in a situation where oil is constantly circulated under pressure -- like in a motor. Machine oil is meant for use in situations where fresh oil is not provided constantly. Therefore, they make it to cling to surfaces. Motor oil typically doesn't cling as much and drains off surfaces. Machine oil is a better choice for the oilite bushing.

 

[TR3driver]

I disagree that 3-in-1 is a better choice here, though. It's very thin machine oil (which is why it's also billed as a penetrating oil); while you want a heavier bodied oil (more surface tension) for sintered bronze, so it will stay in the pores and only creep out when needed, not drip out and run away.

And while a good motor oil does have additives that don't help in this situation; it will cling well enough. It's supposed to, so the cylinder walls stay oily when the engine is not running.

Dick, if you are interested, I have a scan of the Haynes manual (PDF file). It's too big to send through email as a single piece, but we can do it by pieces and I'll send you the software to reassemble them into a single file. Not a very good scan (and not my work), but it's more or less legible.

However, I do recall that Haynes did another run of them just a few years back, so they should still be available new. I see Amazon has a couple of new ones listed, for almost $100 each!
https://tinyurl.com/6anujq
Maybe you should snap up that used one instead

 

[Tinkerman]

Gosh I hope not, mine is in motor oil. As far as I can figure 3 in 1 oil is just a very fine all purpose oil. I remember my Mom using it on her sewing machine. I use it on my wire brush motor, It's so old that it still has oil caps!

I guess I'll check on-line for the Haynes manual.

Tinkerman

 

[sp53]

What I did was go to the auto parts store and look through their books and they had one. I guess you could call them and ask. My take on it was that they had it in stock and it had just set there a long time. I guess not many people go to the parts store and expect to buy a tr3/4 book.

 

[TR4nut]

I think Haynes manuals are still around, for example I've had good dealings with LBCarCo which shows the manual available for $50.

Just saw a better ebay deal: Haynes

$26 buy it now, 6 available..

Randy

 

[Tinkerman]

Randy, I bought one from that chap on eBay. Got it yesterday used it for a tranny question. Lots of pictures, glad I popped for it.

Tinkerman