GT6 Lowering the Rear of a GT6

[svtmikey]

I need to lower the rear end of my GT6 by about 1". I assume this would entail putting in spacers between the differential and the rear spring (if there is another way please let me know). I can fabricate the spacers no problem, but does anyone know where I can get longer spring to differential studs?
Any help would be muchly appreciated.

Thanks

mikey

 

[dklawson]

Our GT6 was lowered by my father-in-law many years ago. It has a block on top of the differential as you mention. I don't remember what he did for studs. However, I would think you could buy a high-strength piece of threaded rod from McMaster-Carr and cut your own studs to length. However, the hardware store variety of steel isn't necessarily a good choice.

Go to https://www.mcmaster.com and use the Find feature to go to page 3083. Read the description of B7 and B16 grade threaded rod (1/2 way down the page). These materials will be somewhat comparable to Grade-5 and Grade-8 bolts respectively. You'll find the threaded rods in these materials on page 3086 & 3087. McMaster will sell to anyone with a credit card. If your employer already has an account with McMaster, have them ship to you c/o your employer and you'll probably find the shipping charges very reasonable.

 

[TR3driver]

McMaster will sell to anyone with a credit card.

Also with no minimum order or minimum shipping charge.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] If your employer already has an account with McMaster, have them ship to you c/o your employer and you'll probably find the shipping charges very reasonable. [/QUOTE]Seems like they have some sort of special deal with UPS; anyway I find their shipping to be quite reasonable even to my home. I don't think there is a surcharge for residential delivery ... shipping for last month's order was only $5.

 

[Andrew Mace]

Although there's no mention of the studs, they're probably available from Canley Classics, as are the Diff Spacers in .5", .75" and 1" sizes.

 

[myspitfire]

A cement block might be just what you need? Cheers Mate!;-)

 

[svtmikey]

Thanks guys I'll go to Mcmaster and Canley and take a look.
As for the cement block....I'm saving that for later!
Mikey

 

[bobmga62]

On my G prod car, (now H) I have made a spacer to raise the spring above the differential.. I made several different sizes, and have settled on about 3/4"... beyond that you stat getting serious negative camber of the rear wheels. (for racing 2.5 degress, negative is where you want to be...) as you raise the spring off the differential, you are actually pulling in the rear uprights inwards

For studs, I just use a set of head bolts that I have tons of..never had a problem in years of racing.

BTW.. check out spitfire magazine, an organization actually makes these shims..

sorry forgot their name...


good luck.

 

[svtmikey]

Bob,
What studs did you use? The stock studs are 3/8 UNF and 3 1/4" long (I think). Did you use longer ones, if so where did you get them?

Thanks

Mikey

 

[foxtrapper]

Alternatively, you can simply redrill the vertical uprights at each wheel. Drill them down how much you want to lower the car, and run the bolt back through in the new holes.

If you want to get really fancy, go with the threaded tips that John Wolfe sells on his site.

 

[svtmikey]

That's an interesting idea...my GT6 69 is a Rotoflex so the vertical links are pretty heavy. Much heavier than on a Non-rotoflex Mk1 or Mk 3, so it may be more than I want to bite off though.
I will take a look at John Wolfe's site for sure.
Thanks for the info!!
Mikey

 

[Andrew Mace]

Mikey, I don't think you can redrill Rotoflex vertical links! But you can get alloy versions from Canley Classics. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

 

[svtmikey]

Andrew,
I wondered about that. I should've mentioned right off that it was a rotoflex car. But the idea is a very good one, just not practical for a Rotoflex as the vertical links are heavy monsters!
I actually just made up a 3/4" spacer out of scrap aluminum (1/4" thick)that I had kicking around. Looks like at that depth the pin on the spring still catches enough in the diff to keep the spring from slipping side to side, and the stock bolts are still long enough.
They are very rough, but they seem to work and I like the fact that if needed I can lower it more by putting in another spacer or raise it by taking one out. Once I actually settle on the height I want I most likely will weld them togeter into a solid block.

 

[foxtrapper]

Ah, no, it won't work on a rotoflex rear.