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HELP #2 - rear hub / brake rebuild

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
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Hi all,

Next question. The ingress of grease to the rear brakes seemed (at least in part) to be due to the fact that the back side of the hub rubbed on the rubber seals of the wheel cylinder, ripping them.

I have renewed all the seals, bearings etc., but as I reassemble, it seems to want to do the same thing. There doesn't seem to be anything stopping the hub from moving inward and ripping the seals. See pic below.

I don't seem to be missing any spacers or anything, as per my manual. What's my issue, here? And/or does the drum itself hold the hub out far enough? The DPO had torqued the hub nuts down WAY too hard, deforming the washers, so that may accoung for a couple of mm... but the picture below is with correctly-installed washer, and there is still interference.

I suppose the question is, what is it that locates the axle, on its lateral axis?

17-08-07_1453.jpg
 
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wrong cylinder??



mark
 

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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And that was wrong as well??? There is no adjustment here, it either fits or it does not. Never saw one that did not before.

Stop the presses, what is that thing on the axle that it hiting the wheel cylinder? Never saw that before either.

Are there four of them are they part of the wheel stud, wrong stud, should be a small concave cap on the stud.

What is with that stud. my money is on a PDO fix ie new studs for wheels.
 
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tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
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Hmm, nope, everything looks original; here's the hub, which is actually what's hitting the cylinder. The bolts themselves look original too.

17-08-07_1733.jpg
 
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Does it barely rub it, or Hit it?

Unless the back plate is bent, I can not think of any other issue other than wrong cylinder.

Is the cylinder tight against the back plate?
 

JPSmit

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I almost didn't install the washer under the snap ring on the back - that might allow the cylinder to stick out more. other than that I'm stumped - I do however have mine all apart if you need me to check anything
 
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tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
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The rear face of the cylinder housing is flush against the back plate... washer and snap ring in place.

Can anyone answer the question of what limits inward travel? That might get me started...

John, do your cylinders look like mine? Hubs?
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
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Bearing/axle shoulder, IIRC. No diagrams or manuals here so I'm useless on this one. Been too long since I had a Spridget that far down.

Jeff, Nial or Hap may have the best info.
 
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tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
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Well, I suppose I'll complete the reassembly, and hope that it's the drum that limits inward travel. If anyone has any insight, I'd love to hear it...

...and I'll follow up with my parts guy to double-check the cylinder itself.
 

Bugeye58

Yoda
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I've had this problem pop up before, and don't know the reason for it. I've just carefully filed or ground down the area of the hub that contacts the dust boots, and pressed on.
There shouldn't be any fluid inside the boots anyway.
Jeff
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
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And the drums don't determine the axle depth in any way: they're just "along for the ride" in this situation.
 
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tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
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Thanks Jeff, at least I know it's not just me / the parts. I'm guessing that the cylinders, although the "correct" parts, must be "close enough" parts! My box is cross-referenced to a Mini (!) It could even just be that the cylinder has remained the same, but the rubber caps are standardized pieces made of thicker material. In any case...

I was worried about unbalancing the axle, but it seems there isn't much of a choice; I'll grind down the proud corners, and reassemble.

(I have just done final assembly, with Permatex blue on the paper gasket, which is clamped & curing as we speak).
 

jlaird

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Not so sure you could unbalance the axle if you wanted to.
 

Bugeye58

Yoda
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I've done maybe a half dozen, and it usually takes very little metal removal to solve the problem. I wouldn't be concerned about the balance at all. The metal removed is so close to the axis of rotation that you'd have to take a huge amount off to make any difference.
Jeff
 
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tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
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Good point... OK, so I've done that, and the rear of the hub now clears the rubber gaiters. So far, so good.

Next problem, though... the hub spins nicely on its own, but the tighter I bolt in the axle, the more it binds.

Thoughts?
 
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tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
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Grr, that's what I was thinking too... I pressed the bearing into the hub, but then it was quite tight going onto the axle, so I had to help it along, using a large socket as a drift.

Remove, grease, re-install more carefully?
 
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