Help ! Rear shroud measurement

[Tech396]

I am currently restoring a early 1958 100/6 I bought the car that the previous owner took apart some 35 years ago.
I am at the stage of panel fit and alignment and need to know if someone can measure the distance (in a straight line) across the two rear fenders at the shut pillars.
At the center of the piping (if your car is together) would be fine , So far I have two measurements. One @ 51" even, and another @ 51-5/16"
I am trying to determine the average measurement of a few different cars.

Also, If anyone has a car that is apart, can you tell me the measurement between the sill and the door when the door is closed.
Not the door gap at the rocker, but the outer sill to the part of the door where the interior door panel mounts IE 5/16" 1/2" 3/4" etc. MM will be fine if that is what you use.
Thanks in advance to everyone.
Paul

 

[healeyblue]

Paul,
If no one else chimes in, I can get you measurements from 2 shrouds that are loose off of cars in the shop Tuesday. Don't have the doors on though so can't help with that measurement.
Jim

 

[Tech396]

Hi Jim
Thanks for the reply. Any input will be appreciated. Ideally, one that is fitted would be more accurate, as the wings of the shroud can spread over time.
Mine was repaired some 30 years ago and sat around, and I have a feeling it measures 1" wider than it should. Thanks for your time
Paul

 

[Randy Forbes]

I just got 51-5/16" on BN6L-942. That was approximating the centerline of the fender beads as near as possible.

 

[Tech396]

I just got 51-5/16" on BN6L-942. That was approximating the centerline of the fender beads as near as possible.

Thanks Randy, I appreciate you taking the time to measure and reply. I hope to hear from others also, just for comparison. Paul

 

[blueskies]

I just measured the distance on the 1957 BN4, under (re)construction. The distance across from one side to the other, to the outer edges of the inner fender flanges is 50 7/8 inches. This is without the rear shroud installed. Add the thickness of the rear shroud metal on both sides and half the thickness of the fender bead (twice), and it could be very similar to the measurement provided by Randy.

Doors not installed at the moment, so I can't help with that other measurement right now.

 

[Tech396]

Thanks Blueskies........Thats great to have all of you elping me here.Thank you !
I think "blueskies" shroud will be about 51-1/16" (give or take) at the point where it mates up to the inner fender.
Cheers !

 

[healeyblue]

Paul
I got some more data points for you. I measured the car from door pillar to door pillar with the shroud off and got 51 and 1/16. I then measured the shroud that goes to this car (the shroud is off obviously) and got 50 and 1/2 inside to inside of the mounting flanges (the edges that would contact the body). I did the same measurement on my spare shroud and got 51 and 1/4. There is obviously a good bit of stretch that will happen when the shroud is put on the car, either open up or be compressed with the fender bolts. I measured other areas of the rear of the car if interested. The rear inner fender to inner fender at the trunk firewall intersection measured 48 and 3/16th. The inner fender to inner fender at the trunk opening cross brace (near the rear tail light area) measured 44 and 1/2.
Jim

 

[Tech396]

Paul
I got some more data points for you. I measured the car from door pillar to door pillar with the shroud off and got 51 and 1/16. I then measured the shroud that goes to this car (the shroud is off obviously) and got 50 and 1/2 inside to inside of the mounting flanges (the edges that would contact the body). I did the same measurement on my spare shroud and got 51 and 1/4. There is obviously a good bit of stretch that will happen when the shroud is put on the car, either open up or be compressed with the fender bolts. I measured other areas of the rear of the car if interested. The rear inner fender to inner fender at the trunk firewall intersection measured 48 and 3/16th. The inner fender to inner fender at the trunk opening cross brace (near the rear tail light area) measured 44 and 1/2.
Jim

Jim
Thank you !! I do realize that no two are going to be exactly the same, but after some EXTENSIVE repairs, I only want to be careful, and not get ahead of myself.
The previous owner stripped the car apart in 1979 and left me no measuments to go by.
The car was pretty rough in the areas that I am now trying to align. The only major part (still original) were the two hinge plates.
So I am starting with door alignment to front shroud, hanging the front fenders, which line up pretty well with the doors and shroud. I'm now working my way back to the rear superstructure (which was removed).
I think as long as I spend the better part of 100hrs, mocking this up, I should be good, fingers crossed !!
Thanks for your time. Paul

 

[oxford]

Hi Paul
Mine measures 51"
Cheers
Matthew

 

[Tech396]

Thanks Matthew

Hi Paul
Mine measures 51"
Cheers
Matthew

 

[ahfan]

Hi Paul, I am new to the forum and see that your post is old but I am restoring my '59 100-6 and recently replaced the 2 side panels and lower panel on the rear shroud. I was meticulous in making measurements and cutting. It looks great but the very rear at the apex of the curved fenders, the shroud sticks out about 3/16ths more than the fender so I am afraid the beading will not look right. With your past experience was just wondering if you might have any ideas? Thanks. Hope you car is doing well. Healey's are getting more and more rare.

 

[RAC68]

Paul,

Your shroud will not be easy to modify without potentially damaging it, so I would suggest you not try. Additionally, the same stamps were used for each panel from beginning to end of 100/3000 production so over time sizes changed slightly through ware. Also, the makeup of the original Alloy is unclear and Aluminum welding of new aluminum sections has given way to the use of modern glues for any shroud-section replacements. Since the shroud overlaps the inner fender, modifying the inner fender to fit the shroud is the more common approach.

Keep in mind that these were hand built cars and fit was achieved by a Technician with a hammer modifying the inner structure (fender) and by going back to the bin to try another outer panel. However, since production seemed to fall behind demand, production levels were the factory's main focus and their perspective of reasonable fit and finish was enough to declare the car complete. As an example, the right front fender of my Newly Delivered Healey was at least 1/2" higher then the forward portion of the door. Another example, w

hen rebuilding my Healey in the 1980s, I straightened the rear inner fenders and could not install the rear shroud. I learned that what I thought were dents and inappropriate bends was really the result of original Technician hammer assembly and needed to recreate his efforts to install my shroud.​

Enjoy the build as it will stimulate your ingenuity and creativity. When completed, it will be YOUR Healey,

Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Paul,

Your shroud will not be easy to modify without potentially damaging it, so I would suggest you not try. Additionally, the same stamps were used for each panel from beginning to end of 100/3000 production so over time sizes changed slightly through ware. ...
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Austin-Healey Magazine had an article a while back in which they talked with a former Jensen stamping plant employee; he said they weren't supposed to, but often stamped as many as three panels at the same time. Hence the, er, erratic fitment.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Paul--

I agree with all of those above who say to simply ignore it and as you have probably already found out there are many things in the world of Austin-Healeys that are less than precise. It's kind of like having uneven sideburns or a pimple on one's nose--who's to say that everything should line up just so and it lends character.