TR6 TR6 rear axle u-joint removal help

[ichthos]

I am replacing the four rear u-joints on my 69 TR6. It is normally a simple process for me to remove a u-joint. I remove the retaining clips, support the opposite side, and use a small socket to push the u-joint to the other side. I remove the cap and simply pull out the u-joint. The problem I am running into is when I push it in as far as it will go, there does not seem to be enough room to push either cap out. I am baffled as to what I am doing wrong. Any tips on what I am doing wrong? Any tips would greatly be appreciated.

Kevin

 

[Brosky]

It sounds like you're doing everything properly. The spider should fall right out and each cup can be tapped out of the collar.

 

[DNK]

Check Dales do it page. If anyone could have a problem and solve it he probably did and showed it.

 

[Tom74TR6]

The U joints are not that easy especially if they are the ones inside the trailing arm. Mine were frozen so I took an angle grinder and cut the spider out. It's not like I wanted to save it anyway.
Tom C

 

[ichthos]

The grinder or cut off wheel was my next step. I just figured there might be some kind of trick to get these out. How do I get to Dale's do it page?
Kevin

 

[DNK]

Check his Profile. Other than that try this
Dales Trial and Tribs

 

[ichthos]

Thanks Don. I'll check out his articles. I had to cut the u-joint that sits inside the trailing arm with a cut off tool.

 

[Brosky]

If you have to cut the old one out, how will you get the exact same thing back in?

 

[ichthos]

The u-joints I was working on are the ones nearest the trailing arm. The space was so tight that even though I could barley push one cap through, I could not get enough room to remove either cap. Hopefully the next one near the differential will go better tonight. I bought some of the heavier u-joints from Goodparts. On quick inspection I found that there is just enough room for the cross to fit without the caps. That shouldn't be a problem since I will be pressing the caps in from either side. Nothing seems to go easy for me on this car. The trouble is always worth it. Nothing cheers me up better than a fast ride through the curvy backroads to work or home.

 

[Brosky]

I'm sorry. I thought that you had these out of the car. My bad!

That would be awful tight in there.

 

[Tinster]

Icthos:

I was not aware it was posible to change out u-joints
while the rear hub is still mounted to the trailing arm.
Looking at my own photos, I can't imagaine how to remove
the old and press in the new.

Outside the car, the change out is fairly easy.
You ARE AWARE the needle bearings arrive in temporary,
packing material and NOT the final grease?

My trailing arm rehab has a few decent photos of
the u-joints.

d

https://www.scribd.com/doc/92509/Trailing-Arm-Bushings-Final

 

[tomshobby]

It is really pretty easy if after pushing the first cap out that you push the joint back to push the other cap back out. If the first cap is left in it will keep the joint from tipping far enough to come out.
So after doing what is in the first pic do what is in the second.
It will make the job easy.

 

[RonMacPherson]

In the interest of safety, I will caution against using a cheap chrome socket as a tool to be pushed against. May work perfectly for a number of times, until you start to load a few extra pounds of pressure and then it will fragment and explode. Better to use a quality socket, or at least a black socket like Snapon and Mac and Matco sell for heavy duty use.
Safety first, please.

 

[TR3driver]

Or at least wear eye protection !

 

[tomshobby]

Eye protection whenever in the shop.

Do not use a hydraulic press for u-joints.

Working with a vice or arbor press the sockets you have should be fine. It would be very unlikely that they would break, but they will not "explode" and cause bits to be flying about using a vise or arbor press. There is simply not enough stored energy built up. Just don't put your fingers in between the parts when you pull the lever.