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Floor insulation

culrad360

Freshman Member
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Rebuilding a 64 MKII. Putting in new floors, they can be insulated using new technology, not jute. Has anyone done this and what was used? Also, there are fiber boards under the driver seat, above the exhaust, and around the driver foot wells. Where does one buy that?
 

Wana

Jedi Hopeful
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I've heard Dynamat mentioned a few times, and I believe Moss and the other suppliers offer a few different choices. I have not used any of these products, so won't offer a comment on effectiveness. Good luck!
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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[ QUOTE ]
Rebuilding a 64 MKII. Putting in new floors, they can be insulated using new technology, not jute. Has anyone done this and what was used? Also, there are fiber boards under the driver seat, above the exhaust, and around the driver foot wells. Where does one buy that?

[/ QUOTE ]


Well culrad360, those panels are not fibre board it is esbestos and handle it accordingly.Repacement precut panels using "Fibre Board" are available from the usual parts suppliers. The mentioned Dynamat material is an excellent heat and noise suppressant.Check around for the best prices.---Fwiw---Keoke
 

GregW

Yoda
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Hi Culrad,
A search for “Dynamat” will should answer your first question (search is up at the top next the forum button). Make sure to set the dates to older than say 1 week on the lower right of the search page. The fiber boards are heat shields. Most Healey suppliers should carry them, I know Moss does. Quite a few people have made their own from Hardibacker (sp?). Home Depot sells that, it’s a flooring material. The original shields have asbestos, in case you didn’t know.

Hey Keoke, looks like your name is Pete, I'm Repete /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif--Greg

------------------------- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif --------------------------Keoke
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Hi culrad360,

I asked this very same question a while ago and got some great advise here. Thank you guys. Originally the floor was covered in tarpaper, then jute, over that layed the rug.

Being our Healey's keep our feet toasty, it's good to use some type of foor covering that helps keep the heat to a minimum. Plus, water proofing and sound deading. Two products seem to provide all three. Koolmat and Dynamat Extreme. (Dynamat Extreme has a thin aluminum foil added, which help reflect heat, vs regular Dynamat)

Koolmat - 1- 704-662-9099 in NC.
Dynamat Extreme bulk pak 10455 - 36 sq ft.

I went with Dynamat. Good deals on Ebay. One bulk pak 10455 did my entire inside. Photo attached.

Good luck, Roger
 

David_K

Jedi Hopeful
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Roger,

Specifically what did the 36 ft cover? I plan on doing the rear seat bottoms and the incline to the rear shelf from the floorboard. I also may do some pieces under the dash and the insides of the door.
 

cjc

Freshman Member
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Faced this issue a number of years ago. Went to the local hardware store, bought some foil faced bubble wrap insulation, was cheap, could buy as much or as little as needed off large roll. Dramatically reduced heat on floor. Does not retain water. Adds very plush feel to carpets. Nice bang for the buck. Worked very well for my needs, but I tend to drive during the cooler hours.
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Hi David,
It covered the entire floor, and the sides, up the footwells, under the heater area, on top of the trans tunnel as part of the floor (not referenceing the fiberglass trans tunnel). That used the entire pak.

If you plan on doing other areas, you will need more. Just a ref as to what that pak will cover.
 
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I just finished insulating my 100-6 last Sunday with Dynamat. The 36SqFt Extreme didn.t quite do it, because I pulled the trans tunnel and did the underside also. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! Can't tell you how hot (although you probably already know) it was in the cockpit prior to the dynamat. Plan to spend a day at it if you are going up under the dash and pulling the tunnel. Don't buy the Dynamat retail, check out e-bay. Also, don't be fooled by the copies that are out there. Good Luck!
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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For the inside of the trans tunnel I used an aluminized heat barrier. It was much thinner than the dynamat and is made especially for refecting heat. I wasn't sure if the dynamat would get soft and start to unstick if the tunnel got too hot.

Here is a link to the product I used:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1828

I'll also attach a photo of the underside of the trans, with the heat shield. The material is available with a self adhesive back, or without it. I choose the simple way, self adhesive.

Cheers and keep cool. Roger
 

John Loftus

Darth Vader
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Roger,

Nice job on the installation. On my BJ7 with stock heatshields and felt/carpet I noticed most the heat coming from the trans tunnel, not from the footwell area or floor. How much of the Pegasus material did you use to cover the inside? Did you do anything special around the wiring to prevent potential electrical shorts?

Cheers,
John
 

Ed_K

Jedi Knight
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I bought the same product from this business, https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ep/exhaustcomponents.html. It was a little less expensive. One of their cool it mats when cut to size is enough to do the driver's side including under the seat and behind the drivers seat under the floor carpets. I also used the self stick pieces on the underside of the transmission tunnel and against the inside of the firewall, right in front of the transmission tunnel.
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Hi John,

Around what wiring?

I purchased 10 rolls of the 1828-12x24 Pegasus material.

Layered the inside of the trans tunnel

Layered the underside of the Consule.

It was my understanding too that a lot of the heat escapes from the top of the trans tunnel. Maybe around the rubber shift boot. So I made sure the rubber boot fit tight. If any heat got by the boot, it would collect inside the consule. I think that is why the glue was letting go on the edges of the vinyl that wraped around inside the consule. So I lined the inside of the consule with Pegasus also.

I removed all the heat sheilds under the car and put the Pegasus there too. Then reinstalled the heat sheilds. Duh.

What was left over was put on the bottom of the passenger side of the car. It ended up covering about half that area.

Pegasus under heat sheilds, Dynamat Extreme inside and Pegaus inside the trans tunnel and consule.

As if that is not enough, I put Low-e brand insulation instead of jute under the carpet on the transmittion tunnel. Aluminum foil on both sides with a insulation material in the center that will not absorb water. Here is the link to that:

https://www.lobucrod.com/

They say that aluminum reflects the heat. Well, I've got so much reflective aluminum inside and outside the car, I may not get picked up by radar traps. Sweet.
 

John Loftus

Darth Vader
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Hi Roger,

What wiring? Just thinking of the OD solenoid wiring and OD limit switch near the bottom of the shifter. Not sure how much room there is between the wiring and the tunnel so would want to keep the terminals/connectors well insulated from any metallic materials like the pegasus.

BTW, I noticed a huge air leak around the e-brake pivot/mount area that goes into the drive tunnel. The passenger would get a blast of heat coming out from this area so it's a good idea to plug this opening as best you can.

Thanks for the info ..

Cheers,
John
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Hi John,
Ah yes, that wire. Good point.
Passenger smashenger. Gets blasted with heat? Oh you thought I was trying to keep the entire car cool? Just my side. Kinda like having a conversation. Who hears it? When your doing 70 and yelling at the passenger. So...how's that engine sound? What?
 
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