I have two comments.
1) regarding the aluminum grommet sandwiched onto the hood for the dzus fastener to fit inside. I had to remove both of mine because they were loose and I could see rust under them. Installing new ones into a freshly painted hood is not hard if you have the right "tools". As a "tool", a local member loaned me a large counter sunk screw to start the compression. I forget the exact size, but it barely fit into the grommet. I went to a hardware store and found a grade 8 (fine thread) Allen countersunk head bolt (with matching nut and washer) because A) the fine thread makes turning/bending/squeezing the grommet much easier and B) a Allen wrench is easier to control than a flat blade screwdriver (I did not want a large screwdriver anywhere near the new paint). After the compression is started, another non-countersunk bolt with washers can be used to flatten the fitting onto the hood. Make sure the grommet is tight because you don't want it moving and damaging your paint -but also not so tight that the ID of the grommet is changed (or the dzus will not fit).
I did not use the washer, crimped in place, to retain the dzus fastener. Instead, I used a rubber o-ring. It doesn't rattle with the hood up or down. Some owners had trouble with a terrible rattle of the dzus, but only with the hood up. I never drive with the hood up, but often spectators want to see the engine running, and that's hard to do without opening the hood. Loud rattles are embarrassing.
2)regarding the hood prop rod rattle. It took me quite some time to understand where my hood was rattling. At idle, it was horrendous -but only at idle, warm, and with the hood firmly closed... The rubber (held in place by a cotter pin) used to retain the rod was worn, and needed to be replaced. Also the secondary finger catch needed the spring tightened, as well as the "axle" screw tightened so it didn't rattle. Finally, I added a o-ring at the base of the prop rod. In the picture you might also note a small section of rubber backed outdoor carpet in the channel where the striker pin hits. I think I installed that while trying to isolate other rattles/squeaks, but it might not be needed.
At present, I have no rattles at idle with the hood open or closed.