Back to basics...my method works on all carbs, all cars. With multi's you must first start at a base with equal draw from both carbs and identical mixture flats set. Adjust them equally together and all will go well. At the very end, when you have gotten the best mixture with equal adjustments on the multi's, ONLY THEN try to improve a tad by individual adjustments, and even then only a flat at most difference. As my master taught me..."you must feel the engine, Grasshopper. It talks and you must listen to understand it's needs". Rough is rich...always. Surge is lean...always. This applies to both Cox TD.049 model engines and 4,000HP Donovans, and everything in between. The button is a mere gimmick to aide the unenlightened or unobservant.
If you keep getting conflicting results as you adjust equally, then you have another issue afoot. Loose butterfly shaft, vacuum leak, bad float setting, worn jet, worn needle, worn diaphragm piston, bad cylinder rings, burned valve, blown head gasket, etc. If you go off on a tangent with a single carb, you will invariably result in one carb providing the air and the other providing the fuel, and the diagnostics conflicting with themselves.
Now, go forth and tune young Luke...or Steve, I mean!?!