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Rear Hubs/bearings
- Thread starter RonR
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Disregard my earlier comment which I have redacted--somehow I thought the question was about the front hub.
Yes, about 150 lb is the spec and it helps to have a socket that has been ground down to square so that there is no chamfer at the edge so as to give a good grip on the nut.
Yes, about 150 lb is the spec and it helps to have a socket that has been ground down to square so that there is no chamfer at the edge so as to give a good grip on the nut.
Last edited:
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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I've always tightened them as tightly as I possibly can, with the longest breaker bar I can find. I think the spec is 150lb-ft (don't have my shop manual handy, but I think that's what the crankshaft nut requires).
I don't see anything in the shop manual for 150 foot pounds, or any other specific instructions on tightening this nut.
This is the very large, and thin nut, that pushes against the wheel bearing, and holds the hub onto the rear axle housing. it is installed before the rear axle is slid into the housing.
It seems that if it is over-tightened, the bearing would not turn freely.
This is the very large, and thin nut, that pushes against the wheel bearing, and holds the hub onto the rear axle housing. it is installed before the rear axle is slid into the housing.
It seems that if it is over-tightened, the bearing would not turn freely.
red57
Jedi Knight
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That nut is only gripping the inner race of the bearing, so over tightening will not affect the free turning of the outer race which is pressed into the hub. Then, per the manual, the outer bearing race is clamped by being proud of the face of the hub and paper gasket by .001-.004 before the axle is installed.
I agree with others, shoot for 150# (or, like Bob said, the biggest breaker bar you have handy) for the big nut. Mike is also right about getting the best grip you can with the socket by grinding off any radius on the end of the socket.
I agree with others, shoot for 150# (or, like Bob said, the biggest breaker bar you have handy) for the big nut. Mike is also right about getting the best grip you can with the socket by grinding off any radius on the end of the socket.
oxford
Jedi Hopeful
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Hi Ron
When i removed mine during restoration i was surprised that it wasn't that tight. I was convinced that it hadn't been off before: no damage to the nut snd the washer had only been bent over once, so i'm not sure about the 150 pounds. I made a spanner and pulled it up as tight as I could then bent over the lock washer.
Good luck
Matthew
When i removed mine during restoration i was surprised that it wasn't that tight. I was convinced that it hadn't been off before: no damage to the nut snd the washer had only been bent over once, so i'm not sure about the 150 pounds. I made a spanner and pulled it up as tight as I could then bent over the lock washer.
Good luck
Matthew
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IIRC, some one found a 110 lb-ft spec for a similar nut in the MGA manual. Yes, tight!
D
Duane_Rhynard
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Duane - I hate to think how expensive or rare the factory wrench is -- and how unlikely any of us are to acquire one.
I bought this wrench from Healey Surgeons for around $50 - 10 years ago.
I don't know about 150 lb ft. When you tighten these nuts, they just come to a stop and refuse to budge more. This wrench is made to be hit with the lead hammer.
I bought this wrench from Healey Surgeons for around $50 - 10 years ago.
I don't know about 150 lb ft. When you tighten these nuts, they just come to a stop and refuse to budge more. This wrench is made to be hit with the lead hammer.
D
Duane_Rhynard
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Steve,
I saw an original 18G258 on eBay a few years ago and just could not pass it up. I've seen a few for sale since, they seem to sell in the $125 - $175 range.
Your welcome to borrow mine anytime!
Thanks,
Duane
BJ8Healeys
Jedi Warrior
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There is no torque specified in the BJ7/BJ8 shop manual. I tighten the nut as much as possible by hand, give the wrench handle a couple medium whacks with a mallet, then bend over the washer. No problems with that approach in 35 years. The nut on the driver's side (LHD cars) is left-hand thread. Not knowing that, I once stripped the threads of a Midget rear hub nut trying to get the nut off. Put it back on with Lok-Tite as tight as I was comfortable with and it's still on there after 24 years and 40,000 miles.
I made a special tool from a Sears socket. Not exactly pretty, but it does the job. Actually, I put together a tool kit and instructions for removing and installing the rear bearings. It's available for loan for the postage.
Attachments
So far, no one has listed a source for the 150 foot-pound torque. As I mentioned earlier, the 7 th Issue of the Workshop Manual does not include any torque setting, and as Steve posted, there is none listed in the BJ7/BJ8 shop manual.
There is no way to attached the AH Spares spanner, or the wrench from Healey Surgeons, to a torque wrench.
Using a standard 2-3/16 socket, I was able to achieve 90 foot-pounds, which is 30 foot-pounds more than what is listed in my Workshop Manual for steel wheel lug nuts..
There is no way to attached the AH Spares spanner, or the wrench from Healey Surgeons, to a torque wrench.
Using a standard 2-3/16 socket, I was able to achieve 90 foot-pounds, which is 30 foot-pounds more than what is listed in my Workshop Manual for steel wheel lug nuts..
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
Online
That would be me. I think I got the number confused with the torque setting for the engine damper; I've undone both in the recent past. I've always theorized--no proof or evidence--that since the locktabs are made of mild steel they may squish a little and release some of the clamping force, so it probably can't hurt to over-torque some. It's not like the crankshaft or axle is going to snap.
The spanner socket I bought years ago--similar to the AH spanner--has a 'strap' for a half-inch torque wrench, ratchet or breaker bar, and holes for a shaft like the 'official' tool.
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Before we start crying "fake news" let's go to MGA Guru Barney Gaylord's page on the topic where he regards 150 ft/lbs as a minimum:for the slightly smaller MGA nut:
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra102.htm
If anyone feels we are overly concerned with numbers just get a proper fitting socket and long enough lever and give it your best. Worst case scenario you'll see where your rear wheel lands when it passes you.
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra102.htm
If anyone feels we are overly concerned with numbers just get a proper fitting socket and long enough lever and give it your best. Worst case scenario you'll see where your rear wheel lands when it passes you.
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Good explanation of why that torque needs to be so high. Thanks Michael.
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