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Rear Hubs/bearings

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Michael Oritt said:
Before we start crying "fake news" let's go to MGA Guru Barney Gaylord's page on the topic where he regards 150 ft/lbs as a minimum:for the slightly smaller MGA nut:

Barney is the guru and I can buy his reasoning for the high torque, but when he says a normal human can't strip the nut, I beg to differ. Although it is a bit smaller than the Healey nut (I don't know how large an MGA nut is), as I said I stripped the nut on my MG Midget while trying to turn the left-hand nut the wrong way to get it off, and I wasn't using any extraordinary breaker bar. Maybe I'm not normal? Whether it's doing any damage internally or not, I don't know since I haven't removed that Lok-Tited nut in more than 25 years. I can't remember any extraordinary effort to get the Healey nut off, either, other than needing an octagonal socket.
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I don't see where this torque is relevant - when you tighten the nut, it comes to a sudden stop against the lock washer and the hub of the bearing, which do not have any give. There's no adjustment range - it's either loose or tight.
 
For what it's worth, I contacted Healey Surgeons, and he says 75 foot pounds.

I think Steve Gerow has a very valid point.
 
Soooooo ... An irrelevant 75 ft-lbs?

I jest. Just torque the snot out of it, and be sure to fold the locktab properly (I do it on a flat of the nut, not a corner). But, I don't buy the 'sudden stop' theory--more torque will almost always yield more movement (even if you may just be stretching the threads).
 
Bob_Spidell said:
... Just torque the snot out of it, and be sure to fold the locktab properly (I do it on a flat of the nut, not a corner). But, I don't buy the 'sudden stop' theory--more torque will almost always yield more movement (even if you may just be stretching the threads).
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Yes, more torque stretches the metal. Just stay in the elastic range below the yield point.
 
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