What are the tricks to balancing wire wheels?

[58Custom]

I got a set of new tires a while back when I was getting this '69 Midget going. They were balanced by the shop after mounting with new tubes. At that same time I was doing a lot of stuff to the car, so I dropped off and picked up the tires off of the car. I refreshed the engine and installed a good used differential chunk and changed the rear U-joint and other things. Prior to this I had not driven the car faster than 30 mph.

After all of that I found that I had a pronounced vibration at 60 MPH and above. I rotated the driveshaft in relation to the diff 90 degrees but it really didn't make any difference.

I rotated the wheels fron to back, but there was no real change in the vibration.

Yesterday I lifted the rear and spun the tires by hand and noticed a slight side to side wobble at the rim of about 1/8 inch. I started the car and spun the wheels (4th gear) to 60 and felt vibration. I let it idle in 4th and noticed that the tires appeared to be out of balance. That is the wheels seemed to rotate concentrically, but the tires appeared out of round like it was unbalanced.

I have read in the scans of factory docs that the tire installer must use special tools to balance the wheels. The tire places near me do not have anything but the usual install stuff.

The tires are 155/80R-13 Milestar Touring SEs. Except for problems with their trailer tires in the past they seem to be ordinary, decent tires. The wire wheels are old, but not loose. They don't flex from side to side.

Thoughts? Experiences? Advice? Admonitions?

 

[RJA]

Tom,

Go to Hendrixwirewheel@Mindspring.com for balancing wire wheels.

Jerry Anderson

 

[aeronca65t]

I just did mine (by hand) on my MGB.

You need to be real careful that the tube isn't snagged under the rim. This can cause wobble and imbalance. I balance mine on a small, cheap static balancer and they seem OK so far.

I'd take that wheel off and let all the air out of it...then "break the bead" and make sure the tube is in the correct position (not twisted or snagged under the rim).
If you can't break the bead at home, bring it to a service station.

The correct way to fill a tube type tire is to fill and then drain it several times so the tube gets "friendly" with the inside of the wheel and tire.
And many people use a mild lube (such as WD-40) or even talcum powder to help the tube move around until it fits well inside the tire.

 

[tony barnhill]

I put all my wire wheels on an old bubble balancer & then put all my weights on the rear side of the wheel...if there's any vibration after that, I take the setup to my local tire store & have them shave the tire....what I mean by that is exactly what it says...they put the setup on a machine & check the balance...then they lightly shave the tread on the tire to ensure its perfectly round on that particular wheel.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Just because they are round doesn't mean that the spokes do not need adjustment. I suggest finding a shop that deals with wire wheels to get them trued and balanced. If you can not find a shop, then you might try some motorcycle shops.

 

[tony barnhill]

But if you're planning on trueing old British wire wheels - buy some new spokes just in case....

 

[58Custom]

OK. I don't think the tires are the problem.

I was just outside. I lifted the rear and watched the tires bob up & down while driven by the engine. I watched it from several angles. I watched from the rear at the top edge of the knock-off and could see run-out. Just as a check I put on one wheel with an old spare tire, a vintage Tyrino (it's Italian, ya'll!). It also bobbed. Then I removed the tires and I could still see run-out at the hubs. I pulled the drums and could still see run-out. I guess I gotta go all in and yank the axle shafts.

While I had the engine out in April/May I got a used pumpkin (that's what we call the chunk) at a junkyard. when I put it in I replaced the end seals and outer bearings along with the rear brake components. Now I wonder if I did something wrong, so I will retrace my steps.

Only things I can figger are:
1) axles are bent. That would be a long shot unless Spridget axles are known to be weak?
2) one or both outer axle bearings are not properly seated against the shoulder of the axle housing end and are thus not properly perpendicular to the axle shaft and so are causing the wobble. Anyone seen this?

Me no happy.

 

[Guest]

I had two that were out of round. I built a jig using a laser pen- similar to what I did when I built my mountain bike wheels. I dismounted the tires and rotated slowly and adjusted the spokes from the opposite end. They darn near balanced perfect when I put the tires back on 'em.

 

[aeronca65t]

Spridget axles are pretty easy to bend (due to the semi-floating design of the rear axle).
They usually break soon after they bend.
I've broken about 10 axles in my race-Spridget in the last few years.